Вершина в альпах номер 1

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Ответ на вопрос «Самая высокая гора в Альпах «, 7 (семь) букв:
монблан

Альтернативные вопросы в кроссвордах для слова монблан

Определение слова монблан в словарях

Энциклопедический словарь, 1998 г.

Значение слова в словаре Энциклопедический словарь, 1998 г.

МОНБЛАН (франц. Mont Blanc, итал. Monte Bianco) горный массив и вершина в Зап. Альпах, на границе Франции и Италии, самая высокая в Зап. Европе (4807 м). Площадь оледенения св. 200 км2. Крупный ледник Мер-де-Глас (дл. 12 км). Альпинизм, туризм. Астрономическая …

Большая Советская Энциклопедия

Значение слова в словаре Большая Советская Энциклопедия

(франц. Mont Blanc, итал. Monte Blanco), горный массив в Западных Альпах. Протягивается с Ю.-З. на С.-В. на 50 км по границе Франции, Италии и Швейцарии. Высота до 4807 м (наибольшая в Альпах и во всей Западной Европе). Сложен гранитами, гнейсами, кристаллическими …

Википедия

Значение слова в словаре Википедия

Монбла́н — коммуна во Франции , находится в регионе Юг — Пиренеи . Департамент — Жер . Входит в состав кантона Саматан . Округ коммуны — Ош . Код INSEE коммуны — 32261.

Примеры употребления слова монблан в литературе.

Преграда из первобытных скал длиной в две тысячи пятьсот километров от семьдесят второго до девяносто пятого меридиана покрывает две провинции — Агру и Калькутту, два королевства — Бутан и Непал — цепь гор, средняя высота которой на треть выше вершины Монблана.

Повторялась механика вождизма, возносившая на монбланы власти все новых и новых калифов.

Некоторые имели немую грозность Эвереста, иные — дремливое величие Монблана или Айгера, иные — чистоту и простоту Фудзи- Ямы.

Я еще раз огляделся по сторонам, пытаясь отогнать от себя навязчивых солнечных зайчиков, и только тут осознал, почему этот город мне сразу показался знакомым: просто я здесь родился и прожил всю жизнь до настоящего дня, и проживу весь остаток своей жизни, и никуда я из этого города никогда не уезжал, а все остальные города — Москва, Ленинград, Севастополь, Волгоград, Минск, Таллин, Хельсинки, Бухарест, София, Загреб, Цюрих, Женева, Париж, Рим, Милан, Венеция, Нью-Йорк, Вашингтон, Филадельфия, Квебек, Монреаль, Мадрид и даже Курмайер у подножия Монблана — мне только приснились во время сладкой полуденной сиесты.

Однако знаменитому создателю систематики неогена следует ответить, что хотя, вероятно, рекомендованная им деятельность и привела бы к нагромождению монбланов знаний, но после исполнения этого задания плодами его воспользоваться было бы некому.

Пока старый трактирщик в ожидании, что к его коллекции присоединятся новые останки, причитал и прибавлял еще одну главу к повествованию о несчастных случаях на Монблане, швед и его проводники успели вернуться и с веревками, с лестницами, со всем спасательным снаряжением отправились на поиски злосчастного Тартарена, но — увы!

Источник: библиотека Максима Мошкова

Альпы — самый популярный горный массив, собравший несколько живописных вершин. Туристы со всего мира приезжают сюда для отдыха и активного времяпрепровождения. Многие горы в Альпах находятся под строгой защитой и остаются важным объектом исследования.

Альпы — заснеженный оазис

Самые красивые виды, могучие горы и превосходные обзорные точки предлагают именно Альпы.

Монблан

Свое начало горы берут с Лазурного берега Франции, проходят рядом с Италией, огибают ее с севера и далее тянутся на восток к Германии, Швейцарии и Австрии. Альпы делятся на три зоны:

  • западную;
  • центральную;
  • восточную.

Несколько гор в Альпах являются частью списка Всемирного наследия ЮНЕСКО.

История изучения Альп

С точки зрения науки Альпы являются невероятно интересным горным массивом. Почему горы называются именно так, точно неизвестно. Есть несколько версий о происхождении названия:

  1. Согласно одной из них, слово «Альпы» произошло от латинского «альпес». Данное название означает «белый».
  2. Другая версия утверждает, что горы называются так благодаря слову «аль», что указывает на наличие высоких вершин.
  3. Во французском и итальянском языках есть слово «альпе», перевод которого сводится к словосочетанию «горная вершина».

Подобные слова использовали древние греки и византийцы. В сочинениях Прокопия Кесарийского Альпы и Пиренеи называются одинаково.

Первым исследователем, описавшим Альпы, стал Жан-Жак Руссо. Тогда люди ассоциировали горы со страшным местом, но Руссо первым убедился, что Альпийский край по-настоящему прекрасен. Наряду с известным писателем Альпами начали восхищаться и другие творцы. Среди них оказались Гёте, Шиллер и Тернер. Горные пейзажи вдохновляли их на творчество, как сейчас Альпы вдохновляют путешественников. Среди всех вершин Альп самой высокой является гора Монблан.

Монблан — высшая точка Альп

Высота Монблана превышает 4800 метров. Это действительно самая высокая точка Европы, если проводить границу Европы и Азии по северной границе Кавказа. Монблан относится к западным Альпам и входит в общую горную систему.

Вопрос о принадлежности

Кому принадлежит высшая точка Европы — вопрос, уже давно вызывающий жаркие споры. Раньше Монблан рассматривали как неотъемлемую часть Савойского герцогства.

Высота Монблан

А затем она перешла под контроль Сардинского королевства. Когда Наполеон устроил череду войн, одержав громкие победы одну за другой, Монблан стала частью Франции. Нынешнее положение горы Монблан регламентируется соглашением, подписанным Италией и Францией, которое датируется 1861 годом. По нему Монблан является «новой границей».

Климат в районе Монблана

Монблан не просто так называется «Белой горой». Высшая точка Европы характеризуется холодным летом и снежной зимой. Температура воздуха редко превышает 20 градусов по Цельсию даже с наступлением июля. Характерной особенностью Монблана стали теплые потоки воздуха, которые приходят со стороны Средиземного моря и поднимаются вверх. Север же несет на самую высокую гору Европы холодный воздух. Наибольшее количество осадков выпадает на высоте от 1500 метров. Чем ближе к вершине, тем сильнее ощущается мороз. Холода настолько сильны, что способны буквально заморозить. Подтверждением тому стали останки, обнаруженные учеными несколько десятилетий назад. Находка представляла собой практически идеально сохранившегося доисторического человека. По примерным подсчетам, возраст останков превышал 5000 лет.

Долины самой высокой горы Европы

У Монблана есть несколько долин, каждая из которых содержит разные маршруты. От долины Валь-Вене можно пойти на «часовой маршрут» или «грушу». Оба являются достаточно опасными и требуют высокого уровня подготовки.

Самая высокая гора Европы - Монблан

Одной из самых красивых долин высокого Монблана называют долину Валь-Ферре. Здесь прекрасно гармонируют луга Альп, леса, нетронутая человеком природа. Местные обитатели высокой горы — серны и каменные бараны, разнообразные сурки, дикие овцы. В долине Шампе расположено живописное озеро, густой лес, сюда любят приходить многие туристы. Высшее наслаждение дарит отдых среди альпийских лугов, чему способствует хороший гостиничный сервис. Писатели Дюма и Гюго рекомендовали начинать восхождение на Монблан с Арва — большой долины, откуда отлично просматривается самая высокая точка. Самой необычной долиной является Курмайор, где расположилась деревня с колоритными домиками, она служит своеобразной культурной достопримечательностью. Здесь живут проводники, которые хорошо знакомы с местностью. Если захочется выйти на равнину, то вас заинтересует долина, которая называется Монжуа. Рядом с ней проходит дорога, которая когда-то была построена римлянами.

Флора и фауна высшей точки Альп

Как часть горной системы Альп, гора Монблан стала настоящим кладом для исследователей и специалистов в области естествознания. Здесь можно встретить альпийскую галку, предпочитающую высокие скалы. Этих птиц интересуют туристы — самый главный источник пищи. Люди сами подкармливают галок, оставляя много пищевых отходов. Хорошо приспособилась к суровому климату кедровка, способная прокормить себя самостоятельно. Она заранее заготавливает семена и орехи, зарывая плоды в землю. Обычная кедровка может до наступления холодов сделать 25 тысяч тайников. Самое большое количество семян, которое способна запасти кедровка, составляет 100 тысяч штук. Ее память до сих пор остается загадкой, однако птица прекрасно ориентируется среди своих тайников. И еще один удивительный представитель мира пернатых называется снежным вьюрком. Эта птица предпочитает гнездиться на высоких скалах, устраивая гнезда прямо среди трещин.

Легко ли покорить высшую точку

Высшая точка Монблана привлекает тысячи альпинистов. Ее красивые и кажущиеся девственными снега способны очаровать каждого путешественника. Однако не стоит обольщаться, ведь Монблан считается одной из наиболее сложных гор для покорения. Самая популярная долина, с которой альпинисты начинают восхождение, называется Шамони. Долина представляет собой огромный котлован, протяженность которого составляет 23 километра. Ученые полагают, что Шамони появилась благодаря явлению, которое в мире науки называют Великим оледенением.

Монблан фото

Шамони неслучайно стала популярной, к ней проложены наиболее удобные для подъезда пути. Их появлению способствовал император Наполеон III, однажды отдыхавший здесь. Красота Альп настолько поразила его, что он повелел начать активное строительство новых дорог. Первые альпинисты, отважившиеся на покорение Монблана, сталкивались с чередой неудач. Местные даже стали называть гору проклятой.

И тому действительно были причины. После покорения соседней Монтенвер, высшую точку пытались «взять» неоднократно. Монблан стал манящей горой, покорители которой гибли снова и снова. Только к 1786 году было совершено первое восхождение на самую высокую точку Европы. После этого уже однажды покоривший Монтернвер Орас Бенедикт решается собрать экспедицию, чтобы выдвинуться на очередное покорение Монблана. Это было необходимо для изучения ледников, особенностей их природы и выявления природных закономерностей. Благодаря экспедиции Орас Бенедикт смог создать измерительные приборы нового поколения, составить подробные инструкции по восхождению, которые долгие годы использовались европейскими альпинистами. Тогда еще люди не знали, что регулярные восхождения называются альпийским туризмом. Но предприимчивые жители активно способствовали спортсменам, самостоятельно начав изучать местность, чтобы помогать туристам ориентироваться.

Монблан покорение

Это стало приносить хорошие доходы. Вскоре Монблан превратился в важный туристический объект, его даже отважилась покорить женщина. Первой спортсменкой, которая сумела совершить восхождение к высшей точке Монблана, стала Мари Паради.

Сейчас высшая точка покоряется любому желающему, достаточно просто купить билет на фуникулер. Но истинные альпинисты легких путей не ищут.

Защита природы самой высокой горы Европы

Вся природа Альп подвергалась длительному антропогенному воздействию. Регулярная вырубка лесов привела к обеднению почв, развитие набирала эрозия. Сейчас Европейский Союз пристально следит за состоянием природы, обязывает путешественников обходиться без розжига костров. Лесные пожары крайне опасны для Монблана, так как для местности характерны лавины, схождение селевых потоков. За прошедшее столетие было уничтожено примерно 60% лесов Альп. Это сильно сказалось на состояние флоры и фауны, поэтому Монблан объявлен туристической охраняемой зоной.

Достопримечательности самой высокой горы

Лучшие достопримечательности путешественникам предлагает коммуна Шамони. Железнодорожные линии, составы которых курсируют по горной местности, позволят насладиться замечательными видами. Высшее наслаждение подарит прогулка по долине и посещение альпийского музея. Культурная жизнь местных жителей очень насыщена. Шамони регулярно принимает такие мероприятия, как фестивали, спортивные турниры, ледовые гонки. Особенно прекрасна рождественская пора, когда маленькие домики украшаются разноцветными гирляндами. Любителям горнолыжного спорта рекомендуется посещение белой долины. Неподалеку от долины находится ледник, который называется Мер-де-Глас. Сейчас он служит туристическим центром, радуя весьма интересной достопримечательностью — ледяной пещерой.

На территории Шамони также есть озеро, называемое Синклер. Это чисто рукотворный водоем, созданный по приказу лорда Синклера. Местные земли когда-то принадлежали именно ему. Суббота становится для местных жителей настоящим праздником, когда открывается рынок. Центр коммуны становится пешеходным, все стремятся приобрести интересные товары, попробовать деликатесы. Парки Шамони предлагают спокойный отдых, здесь есть даже аквапарк со всеми удобствами.

Вершина Монблана

Если вы чувствуете себя еще недостаточно уверенно в роли скалолаза, обязательно посетите центр, который называется Vallee Blanche. Целый ряд треков к услугам всех желающих. Даже начинающие альпинисты смогут быстро научиться двигаться на лыжах. Альтернативой служит комплекс, который местные называют Glacier des Bossons. Он предназначен специально для прогулок вдоль ледника. Для детей тоже есть интересное место, оно называется Le Paradis des Praz и представляет собой красивый парк. Здесь можно устроить пикник. Само место оборудовано горками, качелями, игровой площадкой.

Видео

Семь вершин Альп — поиск оптимального варианта коллекции

Неправильно, наверное, было бы утверждать, что идея «семи вершин», то есть, восхождения на семь высочайших вершин семи континентов, овладела массами. Слава небесам — нет! Не массами, она движет в настоящее время лишь десятками или сотнями любителями гор. Но и этого достаточно, чтобы считать проект «Семь вершин» состоявшимся. Это самая знаменитая идея из идей коллекционирования вершин. А этих идей может быть великое множество. Самое главное — что они могут быть индивидуальны, у каждого альпиниста есть своя идея, какие вершины и по какому принципу выбирать. В СССР было принято собирать коллекцию по категориям трудности в нарастающем порядке. Как правило, коллекции определяются тем, что люди хотят побывать в большем количестве разных мест, ходить по интересным маршрутам.

Все — в Альпы!

Нашей темой будут горы Европы. И это, прежде всего, Альпы. Самая простая и очевидная идея для коллекционеров — взойти на высочайшие вершины стран. Строго говоря, мы имеем семь стран, которые можно отнести к альпийским. Значит — программа «Семь Вершин Альп»?

Нюанс первый

Но тут возникает один… нет, даже два нюанса. Во-первых, получается, что одна из вершин является высочайшей сразу для двух стран. Монблан находится практически на границе Франции и Италии, и по справедливости, должна считаться высочайшей вершиной обеих стран. Есть другое мнение. Французские картографы, а с ними и часть французов (другой части всё равно), не без гордости за свою страну, считают, что граница проходит не по вершинному гребню, а по границе скал, которые окружают ледовую шапку. И это мнение отображено на большей части карт!

05-2013--33_07

Французский вариант карты

Нюанс второй — Лихтенштейн

Второй нюанс касается седьмого государства. Оно само по себе не совсем полноценное, крошечное — это княжество Лихтенштейн, единственная среди семи стран монархия. Её суверенитет весьма ограничен. Высшая точка страны — гора Граушпице (высота — 2599 м) также выбивается из общего ряда. Она не может быть названа приятной для восхождения, популярной и посещается крайне редко. Прямо скажем, что другой причины подниматься на неё, кроме попадания в список, нет. А есть разрушенный известняковый гребень со многими почти равными по высоте вершинами. Гребень, покрытый частично мхами, неприятный и мало приспособленный для организации страховки. Не могу рекомендовать эту вершину (Граушпице) для включения в коллекцию «Семь вершин Альп». Хотя сходить можно, сам собираюсь.

Монблан

Монблан, Монте Бианко — в переводе «Белая гора». Это настоящий монарх Альпийских гор. Доминирующая вершина, кульминация громадного по европейским меркам массива, с длинными отрогами, с большим оледенением. Интересно, что высота Монблана является переменной величиной, что показывают точные исследования, которые проводят раз в два года французские геодезисты. За последние 10 лет высота его достигала 4810,85 метров и опускалась ниже 4800 метров. На картах чаще стоит цифра, поставленная ещё в XIX веке — 4807 метра.

Собственно вершина — это огромный ледовый гребень, нарост на скальном основании. Интересно, что вершина смещается каждый год в одном направлении — на северо-восток, и классический маршрут становится с каждым годом длиннее.

MB_Autunno_WebG_320_l

Монблан Главный (белый пик в центре) и Монблан дю Курмайор, слева от него в 600 метрах

Итак, если принять мнение французских картографов, то нужно искать высшую вершину для Италии. В этом случае, высшая точка этой страны находится на первом скальном выходе на западной или восточной стороне вершинного купола Монблана. Скорее всего, это будет вершина, носящая название Монблан дю Курмайор. Её высота 4748 метров и лучше всего на неё ходить с главной вершины. По расстоянию это метров 600, за полчаса это можно легко сделать.

Однако, имеет право на существование предположение, что поскольку Монблан дю Курмайор может быть рассмотрен только как плечо Монблана и не является отдельной самостоятельной вершиной, то следует её поискать в другом месте. Тогда высшей вершиной Италии может быть признана одна из вершин массива Монте-Роза.

Монте-Роза

Именно такое написание вершины предлагает нам БСЭ (для европейцев она едина в написании как Monte Rosa). Наша старая энциклопедия на данный момент главный справочник, законодатель для пишущих на русском языке. Монте-Роза — громадный массив, с несколькими почти равноправными по высоте вершинами, вытянутый большей частью вдоль итальяно-швейцарской границы. Главный гребень идёт с юга на север, при этом пик Дюфур (4634 или 4633,9 метра) — высшая вершина Швейцарии, расположен в боковом отроге массива Монте-Роза. И высшей точкой Италии оказывается (физически) неприметная вершина с немецким именем Гренцгипфель высотой в 4618 метров. Однако, строго говоря, это вообще не вершина. Практически, это — только перегиб в длинном гребне, идущем к пику Дюфур. Тогда первенство переходит к другой вершине массива Монте-Роза, самой северной и также имеющей чисто немецкое название — Нордэнд. Интересно, что у неё различают две вершины: «швейцарскую» (4609 м) и более высокую «итальянскую» — 4612 м.

Среди мнений по поводу того, какую из вершин считать высочайшей в Италии, весьма популярно следующее. Чтобы не спорить по пограничным вершинам, отдадим первенство горе, которая совершенно точно, вместе с отрогами, находится на итальянской земле. И такой вершиной называют Гран Парадизо — 4061 метр высотой.

Monte-Rosa

Монте-Роза, вид со стороны Церматта. В центре — Дюфур и слева от него Нордэнд

Гроссглокнер

В Австрии почти нет сомнения относительно главной горы — это Гроссглокнер (3798 м). «Почти» — это потому что ещё не совсем умерло воспоминание о том, что до Первой мировой войны эта роль принадлежала лежащему теперь в Италии Ортлеру (Ортлесу) — 3905 м. Но это уже история. Гроссглокнер — это «большой колокол» (в переводе), высочайшая вершина Австрии и Восточных Альп, красивая скальная пирамида, в окружении импозантных ледников. Гора интересная для восхождения, даже самый простой маршрут может доставить радость.

Гроссглокнер — гора, в известном плане, претендующая на множественное историческое первенство: первые массовые восхождения, первый крест на вершине, первая комфортабельная хижина, первая и уникальная автодорога, сделанная специально для туристов, посещающих район. Среди первого, принадлежащего горе — первый в мире маршрут, оборудованный стационарными металлическими перилами в сложных местах. Ещё в 1867 году гребень Штудля, западный гребень Гроссглокнера, был оборудован стационарными перилами длиной 400 метров. Этот маршрут мы рекомендуем квалифицированным альпинистам, желающим уйти от толпы, идущей по классическому маршруту.

05-2013--33

Классический маршрут (1 на схеме ): вершинный взлет на Кляйнглокнер, предвершину Гроссглокнера

Цугшпитце

Цугшпитце (2962 м) — широкий, известняковый массив, кульминация Баварских Альп, высшая вершина великой страны, под названием Германия. Само название (слово «цуг» есть и в русском языке) присвоено за схожесть с поездом, точнее, с вереницей лошадей или повозок. Длинный-длинный гребень образует характерный силуэт, почти одинаково смотрящийся с любой стороны.

Из всех альпийских вершин Цугшпитце самая «заобустроенная». На её вершину проложена железная дорога, в значительной степени проходящая под землею. На неё поднимают также две канатные дороги: одна из Австрии и одна из Германии. На самой вершине находится метеостанция, горные хижины и другие постройки. Параллельно существует несколько возможностей для восхождения. Рекомендуем маршрут через Хёлленталь, с симпатичным оборудованным каньоном, впечатляющим (особенно для новичков) «клеттерштайгом», уникальным ледником и красивым выходом на вершину.

5DB13873_Zugspitze

Панорама Цугшпитце

05-2013--33_11

На клеттерштайге

Триглав

Это массив, доминирующий в известняковых Юлийских Альпах, самом крайнем в альпийской дуге на востоке. Вершина, много значащая для словенцев, как нации. Они поместили её даже на свои флаг и герб. Триглав (2864 м) возвышается над дном долины практически на 2 километра. С юга под его вершину подойти можно по простым тропам, с севера — это громадная стена, которую можно обойти по тропам и «виа ферратам» слева и справа.

triglav

Триглав

Словения — небольшая, но очень красивая и своеобразная страна, чрезвычайно предрасположенная для приключенческого туризма. Это центр мирового значения для любителей спортивного рафтинга, для спелеологов, здесь находятся прекрасные озера, чудные скалы и исторические памятники. И море рядом. На вершине Триглава.

Маттерхорн

Если рассматривать Монбланы и вершины Монте-Розы как одни объекты, то пока получилось не семь, а только пять вершин. Чтобы список «Семь вершин» были красивым и логичным проектом в него обязательно должен попасть Маттерхорн. Это безусловно вершина, которая является одним из главных символов Альп, гор и альпинизма вообще. Это Маттерхорн, он же — Червино для большинства итальянцев, он же — Сервэн для многих французов. Гордая пирамида, удивительное по красоте природное образование. Из всех «Семи вершин Альп» — это самая сложная гора, однако желание залезть на неё может стать непреодолимым.

Matterhorn

Маттерхорн — двуглавая вершина

Какую вершину добавить к этим шести — самый серьёзный вопрос. Из множества претендентов я выбираю Мармоладу. Главная причина — это высочайшая вершина целой горной страны, своеобразной и отделённой от других частей Альп, под названием Доломиты. Кто-то (например, Р. Месснер) считает их самыми красивыми горами мира. Мармолада (для немецкоговорящих она — Мармолата) — отдельно стоящий массив, с севера покрытый оледенением, большую часть года почти от вершины которого можно съехать на лыжах. А Южная, вертикальная стена горы предлагает едва ли не самые сложные скальные стеновые маршруты Альп.

Мармолада

Мармолада

Мармолада — это длинный гребень с множеством вершин, высшая из которых носит название Пунто Пенья и достигает высоты 3343 метра. Ещё гора знаменита, как самая высокая крепость и музей. Она со времен Первой мировой войны изрыта подземными укреплениями, превращенными сейчас в музей. Частично к памятникам войны относятся и «виа ферраты», по которым часто поднимаются на вершины Мармолады.

Так уйдя в сторону субъективизма, мы определили следующий список «Семи вершин Альп»:

  1. Монблан (Главный, с заходом на Монблан дю Курмайор)
  2. Монта-Роза (траверс Нифетти — Цуштайн — Дюфур — Гренцгипфель — Нордэнд)
  3. Гроссглокнер
  4. Цугшпитце
  5. Триглав
  6. Маттерхорн
  7. Мармолада

Но всегда хочется большего! Другим вариантом для коллекционеров является 10, 12, 15, 20 или другое количество высочайших, красивейших, сложнейших и т.д. вершин региона, страны, массива. Все четырёхтысячники и трёхтысячники, придумывайте сами и будьте счастливы!

© Спорт-Марафон, 2023 Данная публикация является объектом авторского права.
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Alps
ISS058-E-13136 - View of Earth.jpg

The Alps seen from outer space, taken from the International Space Station

Highest point
Peak Mont Blanc
Elevation 4,808.73 m (15,776.7 ft)[1]
Coordinates 45°49′58″N 06°51′54″E / 45.83278°N 6.86500°E
Dimensions
Length 1,200 km (750 mi)
Width 250 km (160 mi)
Area 200,000 km2 (77,000 sq mi)
Naming
Native name
  • Alpi (Italian)
  • Alpes (French)
  • Alpen (German)
  • Alps (Romansh)
  • Alpe (Slovene)
  • (not including numerous dialects)
Geography

Alpenrelief 01.jpg

Relief of the Alps. See also map with international borders marked.

Countries
  • Austria
  • France
  • Germany
  • Italy
  • Liechtenstein
  • Slovenia
  • Switzerland
Range coordinates 46°30′N 09°19′E / 46.500°N 9.317°E
Geology
Orogeny Alpine orogeny
Age of rock Tertiary
Type of rock
  • Bündner schist
  • flysch
  • molasse

The Alps ()[a] are the highest and most extensive mountain range system that lies entirely in Europe,[b][2] stretching approximately 1,200 km (750 mi) across seven Alpine countries (from west to east): France, Switzerland, Italy, Liechtenstein, Austria, Germany, and Slovenia.[c][4]

The Alpine arch generally extends from Nice on the western Mediterranean to Trieste on the Adriatic and Vienna at the beginning of the Pannonian Basin. The mountains were formed over tens of millions of years as the African and Eurasian tectonic plates collided. Extreme shortening caused by the event resulted in marine sedimentary rocks rising by thrusting and folding into high mountain peaks such as Mont Blanc and the Matterhorn.

Mont Blanc spans the French–Italian border, and at 4,809 m (15,778 ft) is the highest mountain in the Alps. The Alpine region area contains 128 peaks higher than 4,000 m (13,000 ft).

The altitude and size of the range affect the climate in Europe; in the mountains, precipitation levels vary greatly and climatic conditions consist of distinct zones. Wildlife such as ibex live in the higher peaks to elevations of 3,400 m (11,155 ft), and plants such as edelweiss grow in rocky areas in lower elevations as well as in higher elevations.

Evidence of human habitation in the Alps goes back to the Palaeolithic era. A mummified man, determined to be 5,000 years old, was discovered on a glacier at the Austrian–Italian border in 1991.

By the 6th century BC, the Celtic La Tène culture was well established. Hannibal notably crossed the Alps with a herd of elephants, and the Romans had settlements in the region. In 1800, Napoleon crossed one of the mountain passes with an army of 40,000. The 18th and 19th centuries saw an influx of naturalists, writers, and artists, in particular, the Romantics, followed by the golden age of alpinism as mountaineers began to ascend the peaks.

The Alpine region has a strong cultural identity. The traditional culture of farming, cheesemaking, and woodworking still exists in Alpine villages, although the tourist industry began to grow early in the 20th century and expanded greatly after World War II to become the dominant industry by the end of the century.

The Winter Olympic Games have been hosted in the Swiss, French, Italian, Austrian and German Alps. As of 2010, the region is home to 14 million people and has 120 million annual visitors.[5]

Etymology and toponymy[edit]

An «Alp» refers to a high elevation pasture frequented only in summer. It often includes several huts and small places of worship (here the Alpe Bardughè in Ticino).

The English word Alps comes from the Latin Alpes.

The Latin word Alpes could possibly come from the adjective albus[6] («white»), or could possibly come from the Greek goddess Alphito, whose name is related to alphita, the «white flour»; alphos, a dull white leprosy; and finally the Proto-Indo-European word *albʰós. Similarly, the river god Alpheus is also supposed to derive from the Greek alphos and means whitish.[7]

In his commentary on the Aeneid of Vergil, the late fourth-century grammarian Maurus Servius Honoratus says that all high mountains are called Alpes by Celts.[8]

According to the Oxford English Dictionary, the Latin Alpes might derive from a pre-Indo-European word *alb «hill»; «Albania» is a related derivation. Albania, a name not native to the region known as the country of Albania, has been used as a name for several mountainous areas across Europe.

In Roman times, «Albania» was a name for the eastern Caucasus, while in the English languages «Albania» (or «Albany») was occasionally used as a name for Scotland,[9] although it is more likely derived from the Latin word albus,[6] the color white.

In modern languages the term alp, alm, albe or alpe refers to a grazing pastures in the alpine regions below the glaciers, not the peaks.[10]

An alp refers to a high mountain pasture, typically near or above the tree line, where cows and other livestock are taken to be grazed during the summer months and where huts and hay barns can be found, sometimes constituting tiny hamlets. Therefore, the term «the Alps», as a reference to the mountains, is a misnomer.[11][12] The term for the mountain peaks varies by nation and language: words such as Horn, Kogel, Kopf, Gipfel, Spitze, Stock, and Berg are used in German-speaking regions; Mont, Pic, Tête, Pointe, Dent, Roche, and Aiguille in French-speaking regions; and Monte, Picco, Corno, Punta, Pizzo, or Cima in Italian-speaking regions.[13]

Geography[edit]

The Alps extend in an arc from France in the south and west to Slovenia in the east, and from Monaco in the south to Germany in the north.

The Alps are a crescent shaped geographic feature of central Europe that ranges in an 800 km (500 mi) arc (curved line) from east to west and is 200 km (120 mi) in width. The mean height of the mountain peaks is 2.5 km (1.6 mi).[14] The range stretches from the Mediterranean Sea north above the Po basin, extending through France from Grenoble, and stretching eastward through mid and southern Switzerland. The range continues onward toward Vienna, Austria, and east to the Adriatic Sea and Slovenia.[15][16][17]

To the south it dips into northern Italy and to the north extends to the southern border of Bavaria in Germany.[17] In areas like Chiasso, Switzerland, and Allgäu, Bavaria, the demarcation between the mountain range and the flatlands are clear; in other places such as Geneva, the demarcation is less clear.

The countries with the greatest alpine territory are Austria (28.7% of the total area), Italy (27.2%), France (21.4%) and Switzerland (13.2%).[18]

Aerial view of the Pennine Alps, the second-highest range of the Alps

The highest portion of the range is divided by the glacial trough of the Rhône valley, from Mont Blanc to the Matterhorn and Monte Rosa on the southern side, and the Bernese Alps on the northern. The peaks in the easterly portion of the range, in Austria and Slovenia, are smaller than those in the central and western portions.[17]

The variances in nomenclature in the region spanned by the Alps make classification of the mountains and subregions difficult, but a general classification is that of the Eastern Alps and Western Alps with the divide between the two occurring in eastern Switzerland according to geologist Stefan Schmid,[10] near the Splügen Pass.

A typical alpine village in the Tuxertal valley of Tyrol, Austria

The highest peaks of the Western Alps and Eastern Alps, respectively, are Mont Blanc, at 4,810 m (15,780 ft)[19] and Piz Bernina at 4,049 m (13,284 ft). The second-highest major peaks are Monte Rosa at 4,634 m (15,203 ft) and Ortler,[20] at 3,905 m (12,810 ft), respectively.

A Series of lower mountain ranges run parallel to the main chain of the Alps, including the French Prealps in France and the Jura Mountains in Switzerland and France. The secondary chain of the Alps follows the watershed from the Mediterranean Sea to the Wienerwald, passing over many of the highest and most well-known peaks in the Alps.
From the Colle di Cadibona to Col de Tende it runs westwards, before turning to the northwest and then, near the Colle della Maddalena, to the north. Upon reaching the Swiss border, the line of the main chain heads approximately east-northeast, a heading it follows until its end near Vienna.[21]

The northeast end of the Alpine arc directly on the Danube, which flows into the Black Sea, is the Leopoldsberg near Vienna. In contrast, the southeastern part of the Alps ends on the Adriatic Sea in the area around Trieste towards Duino and Barcola.[22]

Passes[edit]

Teufelsbrücke (Devil’s Bridge) on the route to the Gotthard Pass; the currently used bridge from 1958 over the first drivable bridge from 1830

The Alps have been crossed for war and commerce, and by pilgrims, students and tourists. Crossing routes by road, train, or foot are known as passes, and usually consist of depressions in the mountains in which a valley leads from the plains and hilly pre-mountainous zones.[23]

In the medieval period hospices were established by religious orders at the summits of many of the main passes.[12] The most important passes are the Col de l’Iseran (the highest), the Col Agnel, the Brenner Pass, the Mont-Cenis, the Great St. Bernard Pass, the Col de Tende, the Gotthard Pass, the Semmering Pass, the Simplon Pass, and the Stelvio Pass.[24]

Crossing the Italian-Austrian border, the Brenner Pass separates the Ötztal Alps and Zillertal Alps and has been in use as a trading route since the 14th century. The lowest of the Alpine passes at 985 m (3,232 ft), the Semmering crosses from Lower Austria to Styria; since the 12th century when a hospice was built there, it has seen continuous use. A railroad with a tunnel 1.6 km (1 mi) long was built along the route of the pass in the mid-19th century. With a summit of 2,469 m (8,100 ft), the Great St. Bernard Pass is one of the highest in the Alps, crossing the Italian-Swiss border east of the Pennine Alps along the flanks of Mont Blanc. The pass was used by Napoleon Bonaparte to cross 40,000 troops in 1800.[25]

The col du Mont-Cenis (2,081 m (6,827 ft)) at the centre left of the picture gives access to a large alpine lake, and further away to the Italian peninsula 12 kilometres (7.5 mi) beyond the pass.

The Mont Cenis pass has been a major commercial and military road between Western Europe and Italy. The pass was crossed by many troops on their way to the Italian peninsula. From Constantine I, Pepin the Short and Charlemagne to Henry IV, Napoléon and more recently the German Gebirgsjägers during World War II.[26]

Now the pass has been supplanted by the Fréjus Highway Tunnel (opened 1980) and Rail Tunnel (opened 1871).[27]

The Saint Gotthard Pass crosses from Central Switzerland to Ticino; in 1882 the 15 km-long (9.3 mi) Saint Gotthard Railway Tunnel was opened connecting Lucerne in Switzerland, with Milan in Italy. 98 years later followed Gotthard Road Tunnel (16.9 km (10.5 mi) long) connecting the A2 motorway in Göschenen on the north side with Airolo on the south side, exactly like the railway tunnel.[28]

On 1 June 2016 the world’s longest railway tunnel, the Gotthard Base Tunnel was opened, which connects Erstfeld in canton of Uri with Bodio in canton of Ticino by two single tubes of 57.1 km (35.5 mi).[29]

It is the first tunnel that traverses the Alps on a flat route.[30]

From 11 December 2016, it has been part of the regular railway timetable and used hourly as standard ride between Basel/Lucerne/Zurich and Bellinzona/Lugano/Milan.[31]

The highest pass in the alps is the Col de l’Iseran in Savoy (France) at 2,770 m (9,088 ft), followed by the Stelvio Pass in northern Italy at 2,756 m (9,042 ft); the road was built in the 1820s.[24]

Highest mountains[edit]

The Eiger (shown along with the Mönch and the Jungfrau) has the tallest north face in the Alps.

The Union Internationale des Associations d’Alpinisme (UIAA) has defined a list of 82 «official» Alpine summits that reach at least 4,000 m (13,123 ft).[32] The list includes not only mountains, but also subpeaks with little prominence that are considered important mountaineering objectives. Below are listed the 29 «four-thousanders» with at least 300 m (984 ft) of prominence.

While Mont Blanc was first climbed in 1786 and the Jungfrau in 1811, most of the Alpine four-thousanders were climbed during the second half of the 19th century, notably Piz Bernina (1850), the Dom (1858), the Grand Combin (1859), the Weisshorn (1861) and the Barre des Écrins (1864); the ascent of the Matterhorn in 1865 marked the end of the golden age of alpinism. Karl Blodig (1859–1956) was among the first to successfully climb all the major 4,000 m peaks. He completed his series of ascents in 1911.[33] Many of the big Alpine three-thousanders were climbed in the early 19th century, notably the Grossglockner (1800) and the Ortler (1804), although some of them were climbed only much later, such at Mont Pelvoux (1848), Monte Viso (1861) and La Meije (1877).

The first British Mont Blanc ascent by a man was in 1788; the first ascent by a woman was in 1808. By the mid-1850s Swiss mountaineers had ascended most of the peaks and were eagerly sought as mountain guides. Edward Whymper reached the top of the Matterhorn in 1865 (after seven attempts), and in 1938 the last of the six great north faces of the Alps was climbed with the first ascent of the Eiger Nordwand (north face of the Eiger).[34]

The 29 Alpine four-thousanders with at least 300 metres of topographic prominence[35]

Name Height Name Height Name Height
Mont Blanc 4,810 m (15,781 ft) Grandes Jorasses 4,208 m (13,806 ft) Barre des Écrins 4,102 m (13,458 ft)
Monte Rosa 4,634 m (15,203 ft) Alphubel 4,206 m (13,799 ft) Schreckhorn 4,078 m (13,379 ft)
Dom 4,545 m (14,911 ft) Rimpfischhorn 4,199 m (13,776 ft) Ober Gabelhorn 4,063 m (13,330 ft)
Lyskamm 4,533 m (14,872 ft) Aletschhorn 4,193 m (13,757 ft) Gran Paradiso 4,061 m (13,323 ft)
Weisshorn 4,506 m (14,783 ft) Strahlhorn 4,190 m (13,747 ft) Piz Bernina 4,049 m (13,284 ft)
Matterhorn 4,478 m (14,692 ft) Dent d’Hérens 4,174 m (13,694 ft) Gross Fiescherhorn 4,049 m (13,284 ft)
Dent Blanche 4,357 m (14,295 ft) Breithorn 4,164 m (13,661 ft) Gross Grünhorn 4,047 m (13,278 ft)
Grand Combin 4,314 m (14,154 ft) Jungfrau 4,158 m (13,642 ft) Weissmies 4,017 m (13,179 ft)
Finsteraarhorn 4,274 m (14,022 ft) Aiguille Verte 4,122 m (13,524 ft) Lagginhorn 4,010 m (13,156 ft)
Zinalrothorn 4,221 m (13,848 ft) Mönch 4,107 m (13,474 ft) list continued here

Geology and orogeny[edit]

Important geological concepts were established as naturalists began studying the rock formations of the Alps in the 18th century. In the mid-19th century, the now-defunct theory of geosynclines was used to explain the presence of «folded» mountain chains but by the mid-20th century the theory of plate tectonics became widely accepted.[36]

The geologic folding seen at the Arpanaz waterfall, shown here in a mid-18th-century drawing, was noted by 18th-century geologists.[37]

The formation of the Alps (the Alpine orogeny) was an episodic process that began about 300 million years ago.[38] In the Paleozoic Era the Pangaean supercontinent consisted of a single tectonic plate; it broke into separate plates during the Mesozoic Era and the Tethys sea developed between Laurasia and Gondwana during the Jurassic Period.[36] The Tethys was later squeezed between colliding plates causing the formation of mountain ranges called the Alpide belt, from Gibraltar through the Himalayas to Indonesia—a process that began at the end of the Mesozoic and continues into the present. The formation of the Alps was a segment of this orogenic process,[36] caused by the collision between the African and the Eurasian plates[39] that began in the late Cretaceous Period.[40]

Under extreme compressive stresses and pressure, marine sedimentary rocks were uplifted, creating characteristic recumbent folds, or nappes, and thrust faults.[41] As the rising peaks underwent erosion, a layer of marine flysch sediments was deposited in the foreland basin, and the sediments became involved in younger nappes (folds) as the orogeny progressed. Coarse sediments from the continual uplift and erosion were later deposited in foreland areas as molasse.[39] The molasse regions in Switzerland and Bavaria were well-developed and saw further upthrusting of flysch.[42]

The Alpine orogeny occurred in ongoing cycles through to the Paleogene causing differences in nappe structures, with a late-stage orogeny causing the development of the Jura Mountains.[43] A series of tectonic events in the Triassic, Jurassic and Cretaceous periods caused different paleogeographic regions.[43] The Alps are subdivided by different lithology (rock composition) and nappe structures according to the orogenic events that affected them.[10] The geological subdivision differentiates the Western, Eastern Alps, and Southern Alps: the Helveticum in the north, the Penninicum and Austroalpine system in the centre and, south of the Periadriatic Seam, the Southern Alpine system.[44]

Compressed metamorphosed Tethyan sediments and their oceanic basement are sandwiched between the tip of the Matterhorn (Italian-Swiss border), which consists of gneisses originally part of the African plate, and the base of the peak, which is part of the Eurasian plate.[37]

According to geologist Stefan Schmid, because the Western Alps underwent a metamorphic event in the Cenozoic Era while the Austroalpine peaks underwent an event in the Cretaceous Period, the two areas show distinct differences in nappe formations.[43] Flysch deposits in the Southern Alps of Lombardy probably occurred in the Cretaceous or later.[43]

Peaks in France, Italy and Switzerland lie in the «Houillière zone», which consists of basement with sediments from the Mesozoic Era.[44] High «massifs» with external sedimentary cover are more common in the Western Alps and were affected by Neogene Period thin-skinned thrusting whereas the Eastern Alps have comparatively few high peaked massifs.[42] Similarly the peaks in eastern Switzerland extending to western Austria (Helvetic nappes) consist of thin-skinned sedimentary folding that detached from former basement rock.[45]

In simple terms, the structure of the Alps consists of layers of rock of European, African, and oceanic (Tethyan) origin.[46] The bottom nappe structure is of continental European origin, above which are stacked marine sediment nappes, topped off by nappes derived from the African plate.[47] The Matterhorn is an example of the ongoing orogeny and shows evidence of great folding. The tip of the mountain consists of gneisses from the African plate; the base of the peak, below the glaciated area, consists of European basement rock. The sequence of Tethyan marine sediments and their oceanic basement is sandwiched between rock derived from the African and European plates.[37]

Haute Maurienne (Ambin and Vanoise massifs) and its exposed crystalline basement made of high-pressure subduction rocks such as blueschist and metaquartzite (picture taken at 2,400 metres or 7,900 feet)

The core regions of the Alpine orogenic belt have been folded and fractured in such a manner that erosion created the characteristic steep vertical peaks of the Swiss Alps that rise seemingly straight out of the foreland areas.[40] Peaks such as Mont Blanc, the Matterhorn, and high peaks in the Pennine Alps, the Briançonnais, and Hohe Tauern consist of layers of rock from the various orogenies including exposures of basement rock.[48]

Due to the ever-present geologic instability, earthquakes continue in the Alps to this day.[49] Typically, the largest earthquakes in the alps have been between magnitude 6 and 7 on the Richter scale.[50] Geodetic measurements show ongoing topographic uplift at rates of up to about 2.5 mm/a in the North, Western and Central Alps, and at ~1 mm/a in the Eastern and South-Western Alps.[51] The underlying mechanisms that jointly drive the present-day uplift pattern are the isostatic rebound due to the melting of the last glacial maximum ice-cap or long-term erosion, detachment of the Western Alpine subducting slab, mantle convection as well as ongoing horizontal convergence between Africa and Europe, but their relative contributions to the uplift of the Alps are difficult to quantify and likely to vary significantly in space and time.[51]

Minerals[edit]

The Alps are a source of minerals that have been mined for thousands of years. In the 8th to 6th centuries, BC during the Hallstatt culture, Celtic tribes mined copper; later the Romans mined gold for coins in the Bad Gastein area. Erzberg in Styria furnishes high-quality iron ore for the steel industry. Crystals, such as cinnabar, amethyst, and quartz, are found throughout much of the Alpine region. The cinnabar deposits in Slovenia are a notable source of cinnabar pigments.[52]

Alpine crystals have been studied and collected for hundreds of years and began to be classified in the 18th century. Leonhard Euler studied the shapes of crystals, and by the 19th-century crystal hunting was common in Alpine regions. David Friedrich Wiser amassed a collection of 8000 crystals that he studied and documented. In the 20th century Robert Parker wrote a well-known work about the rock crystals of the Swiss Alps; at the same period a commission was established to control and standardize the naming of Alpine minerals.[53]

Glaciers[edit]

In the Miocene Epoch the mountains underwent severe erosion because of glaciation,[40] which was noted in the mid-19th century by naturalist Louis Agassiz who presented a paper proclaiming the Alps were covered in ice at various intervals—a theory he formed when studying rocks near his Neuchâtel home which he believed originated to the west in the Bernese Oberland. Because of his work he came to be known as the «father of the ice-age concept» although other naturalists before him put forth similar ideas.[54]

Agassiz studied glacier movement in the 1840s at the Unteraar Glacier where he found the glacier moved 100 m (328 ft) per year, more rapidly in the middle than at the edges. His work was continued by other scientists and now a permanent laboratory exists inside a glacier under the Jungfraujoch, devoted exclusively to the study of Alpine glaciers.[54]

Glaciers pick up rocks and sediment with them as they flow. This causes erosion and the formation of valleys over time. The Inn valley is an example of a valley carved by glaciers during the ice ages with a typical terraced structure caused by erosion. Eroded rocks from the most recent ice age lie at the bottom of the valley while the top of the valley consists of erosion from earlier ice ages.[54] Glacial valleys have characteristically steep walls (reliefs); valleys with lower reliefs and talus slopes are remnants of glacial troughs or previously infilled valleys.[55] Moraines, piles of rock picked up during the movement of the glacier, accumulate at edges, centre, and the terminus of glaciers.[54]

Alpine glaciers can be straight rivers of ice, long sweeping rivers, spread in a fan-like shape (Piedmont glaciers), and curtains of ice that hang from vertical slopes of the mountain peaks. The stress of the movement causes the ice to break and crack loudly, perhaps explaining why the mountains were believed to be home to dragons in the medieval period. The cracking creates unpredictable and dangerous crevasses, often invisible under new snowfall, which causes the greatest danger to mountaineers.[56]

Glaciers end in ice caves (the Rhône Glacier), by trailing into a lake or river, or by shedding snowmelt on a meadow. Sometimes a piece of glacier will detach or break resulting in flooding, property damage, and loss of life.[56]

High levels of precipitation cause the glaciers to descend to permafrost levels in some areas whereas in other, more arid regions, glaciers remain above about the 3,500 m (11,483 ft) level.[57] The 1,817 km2 (702 sq mi) of the Alps covered by glaciers in 1876 had shrunk to 1,342 km2 (518 sq mi) by 1973, resulting in decreased river run-off levels.[58] Forty percent of the glaciation in Austria has disappeared since 1850, and 30% of that in Switzerland.[59]

Although the Alpine topography shows marked glacial morphologies,[60] the mechanisms by which glacial reshaping occurs are unclear. Numerical modeling suggests that glacial erosion propagates from low elevations to high elevations leading to an early increase of local relief followed by lowering of the mean orogen elevation.[61]

Rivers and lakes[edit]

The Alps provide lowland Europe with drinking water, irrigation, and hydroelectric power.[63] Although the area is only about 11% of the surface area of Europe, the Alps provide up to 90% of water to lowland Europe, particularly to arid areas and during the summer months. Cities such as Milan depend on 80% of water from Alpine runoff.[15][64][65] Water from the rivers is used in at least 550 hydroelectricity power plants, considering only those producing at least 10MW of electricity.[66]

Major European rivers flow from the Alps, such as the Rhine, the Rhône, the Inn, and the Po, all of which have headwaters in the Alps and flow into neighbouring countries, finally emptying into the North Sea, the Mediterranean Sea, the Adriatic Sea and the Black Sea. Other rivers such as the Danube have major tributaries flowing into them that originate in the Alps.[15]

The Rhône is second to the Nile as a freshwater source to the Mediterranean Sea; the river begins as glacial meltwater, flows into Lake Geneva, and from there to France where one of its uses is to cool nuclear power plants.[67] The Rhine originates in a 30 km2 (12 sq mi) area in Switzerland and represents almost 60% of water exported from the country.[67] Tributary valleys, some of which are complicated, channel water to the main valleys which can experience flooding during the snowmelt season when rapid runoff causes debris torrents and swollen rivers.[68]

The rivers form lakes, such as Lake Geneva, a crescent-shaped lake crossing the Swiss border with Lausanne on the Swiss side and the town of Evian-les-Bains on the French side. In Germany, the medieval St. Bartholomew’s chapel was built on the south side of the Königssee, accessible only by boat or by climbing over the abutting peaks.[69]

Additionally, the Alps have led to the creation of large lakes in Italy. For instance, the Sarca, the primary inflow of Lake Garda, originates in the Italian Alps.[70] The Italian Lakes are a popular tourist destination since the Roman Era for their mild climate.

Scientists have been studying the impact of climate change and water use. For example, each year more water is diverted from rivers for snowmaking in the ski resorts, the effect of which is yet unknown. Furthermore, the decrease of glaciated areas combined with a succession of winters with lower-than-expected precipitation may have a future impact on the rivers in the Alps as well as an effect on the water availability to the lowlands.[64][71]

Climate[edit]

The Alps are a classic example of what happens when a temperate area at lower altitude gives way to higher-elevation terrain. Elevations around the world that have cold climates similar to those of the polar regions have been called Alpine. A rise from sea level into the upper regions of the atmosphere causes the temperature to decrease (see adiabatic lapse rate). The effect of mountain chains on prevailing winds is to carry warm air belonging to the lower region into an upper zone, where it expands in volume at the cost of a proportionate loss of temperature, often accompanied by precipitation in the form of snow or rain.[72] The height of the Alps is sufficient to divide the weather patterns in Europe into a wet north and dry south because moisture is sucked from the air as it flows over the high peaks.[73]

The Aletsch Glacier with pine trees growing on the hillside (2007; the surface is 180 m (590 ft) lower than 150 years ago)

The severe weather in the Alps has been studied since the 18th century; particularly the weather patterns such as the seasonal foehn wind. Numerous weather stations were placed in the mountains early in the early 20th century, providing continuous data for climatologists.[14] Some of the valleys are quite arid such as the Aosta valley in Italy, the Maurienne in France, the Valais in Switzerland, and northern Tyrol.[14]

The areas that are not arid and receive high precipitation experience periodic flooding from rapid snowmelt and runoff.[68] The mean precipitation in the Alps ranges from a low of 2,600 mm (100 in) per year to 3,600 mm (140 in) per year, with the higher levels occurring at high altitudes. At altitudes between 1,000 and 3,000 m (3,300 and 9,800 ft), snowfall begins in November and accumulates through to April or May when the melt begins. Snow lines vary from 2,400 to 3,000 m (7,900 to 9,800 ft), above which the snow is permanent and the temperatures hover around the freezing point even during July and August. High-water levels in streams and rivers peak in June and July when the snow is still melting at the higher altitudes.[74]

The Alps are split into five climatic zones, each with different vegetation. The climate, plant life, and animal life vary among the different sections or zones of the mountains. The lowest zone is the colline zone, which exists between 500 and 1,000 m (1,600 and 3,300 ft), depending on the location. The montane zone extends from 800 to 1,700 m (2,600 to 5,600 ft), followed by the sub-Alpine zone from 1,600 to 2,400 m (5,200 to 7,900 ft). The Alpine zone, extending from tree line to the snow line, is followed by the glacial zone, which covers the glaciated areas of the mountain. Climatic conditions show variances within the same zones; for example, weather conditions at the head of a mountain valley, extending directly from the peaks, are colder and more severe than those at the mouth of a valley which tend to be less severe and receive less snowfall.[75]

Various models of climate change have been projected into the 22nd century for the Alps, with an expectation that a trend toward increased temperatures will have an effect on snowfall, snowpack, glaciation, and river runoff.[76][77] Significant changes, of both natural and anthropogenic origins, have already been diagnosed from observations.[78][79][80]

Ecology[edit]

Flora[edit]

Thirteen thousand species of plants have been identified in the Alpine regions.[5] Alpine plants are grouped by habitat and soil type which can be limestone or non-calcareous. The habitats range from meadows, bogs, and woodland (deciduous and coniferous) areas to soil-less scree and moraines, and rock faces and ridges.[11] A natural vegetation limit with altitude is given by the presence of the chief deciduous trees—oak, beech, ash and sycamore maple. These do not reach the same elevation, nor are they often found growing together, but their upper limit corresponds accurately enough to the change from a temperate to a colder climate that is further proved by a change in the presence of wild herbaceous vegetation.[81] This limit usually lies about 1,200 m (3,900 ft) above the sea on the north side of the Alps, but on the southern slopes it often rises to 1,500 m (4,900 ft), sometimes even to 1,700 m (5,600 ft).[82]

Above the forestry, there is often a band of short pine trees (Pinus mugo), which is in turn superseded by Alpenrosen, dwarf shrubs, typically Rhododendron ferrugineum (on acid soils) or Rhododendron hirsutum (on alkaline soils).[83] Although Alpenrose prefers acidic soil, the plants are found throughout the region.[11] Above the tree line is the area defined as «alpine» where in the alpine meadow plants are found that have adapted well to harsh conditions of cold temperatures, aridity, and high altitudes. The alpine area fluctuates greatly because of regional fluctuations in tree lines.[84]

Alpine plants such as the Alpine gentian grow in abundance in areas such as the meadows above the Lauterbrunnental. Gentians are named after the Illyrian king Gentius, and 40 species of the early-spring blooming flower grow in the Alps, in a range of 1,500 to 2,400 m (4,900 to 7,900 ft).[85] Writing about the gentians in Switzerland D. H. Lawrence described them as «darkening the day-time, torch-like with the smoking blueness of Pluto’s gloom.»[86] Gentians tend to «appear» repeatedly as the spring blooming takes place at progressively later dates, moving from the lower altitude to the higher altitude meadows where the snow melts much later than in the valleys. On the highest rocky ledges, the spring flowers bloom in the summer.[11]

At these higher altitudes, the plants tend to form isolated cushions. In the Alps, several species of flowering plants have been recorded above 4,000 m (13,000 ft), including Ranunculus glacialis, Androsace alpina and Saxifraga biflora. Eritrichium nanum, commonly known as the King of the Alps, is the most elusive of the alpine flowers, growing on rocky ridges at 2,600 to 3,750 m (8,530 to 12,300 ft).[87] Perhaps the best known of the alpine plants is Edelweiss which grows in rocky areas and can be found at altitudes as low as 1,200 m (3,900 ft) and as high as 3,400 m (11,200 ft).[11] The plants that grow at the highest altitudes have adapted to conditions by specialization such as growing in rock screes that give protection from winds.[88]

The extreme and stressful climatic conditions give way to the growth of plant species with secondary metabolites important for medicinal purposes. Origanum vulgare, Prunella vulgaris, Solanum nigrum, and Urtica dioica are some of the more useful medicinal species found in the Alps.[89]

Human interference has nearly exterminated the trees in many areas, and, except for the beech forests of the Austrian Alps, forests of deciduous trees are rarely found after the extreme deforestation between the 17th and 19th centuries.[90] The vegetation has changed since the second half of the 20th century, as the high alpine meadows cease to be harvested for hay or used for grazing which eventually might result in a regrowth of the forest. In some areas, the modern practice of building ski runs by mechanical means has destroyed the underlying tundra from which the plant life cannot recover during the non-skiing months, whereas areas that still practice a natural piste type of ski slope building preserve the fragile underlayers.[88]

Fauna[edit]

The Alps are a habitat for 30,000 species of wildlife, ranging from the tiniest snow fleas to brown bears, many of which have made adaptations to the harsh cold conditions and high altitudes to the point that some only survive in specific micro-climates either directly above or below the snow line.[5][91]

Young alpine ibex. When fully grown the horns of this male will be about one metre wide.

The largest mammal to live in the highest altitudes are the alpine ibex, which have been sighted as high as 3,000 m (9,800 ft). The ibex live in caves and descend to eat the succulent alpine grasses.[92] Classified as antelopes,[11] chamois are smaller than ibex and found throughout the Alps, living above the tree line and are common in the entire alpine range.[93] Areas of the eastern Alps are still home to brown bears. In Switzerland the canton of Bern was named for the bears but the last bear is recorded as having been killed in 1792 above Kleine Scheidegg by three hunters from Grindelwald.[94]

Many rodents such as voles live underground. Marmots live almost exclusively above the tree line as high as 2,700 m (8,900 ft). They hibernate in large groups to provide warmth,[95] and can be found in all areas of the Alps, in large colonies they build beneath the alpine pastures.[11] Golden eagles and bearded vultures are the largest birds to be found in the Alps; they nest high on rocky ledges and can be found at altitudes of 2,400 m (7,900 ft). The most common bird is the alpine chough which can be found scavenging at climber’s huts or the Jungfraujoch, a high-altitude tourist destination.[96]

Reptiles such as adders and vipers live up to the snow line; because they cannot bear the cold temperatures they hibernate underground and soak up the warmth on rocky ledges.[97] The high-altitude Alpine salamanders have adapted to living above the snow line by giving birth to fully developed young rather than laying eggs. Brown trout can be found in the streams up to the snow line.[97] Molluscs such as the wood snail live up the snow line. Popularly gathered as food, the snails are now protected.[98]

Several species of moths live in the Alps, some of which are believed to have evolved in the same habitat up to 120 million years ago, long before the Alps were created. Blue butterflies can commonly be seen drinking from the snowmelt; some species of blues fly as high as 1,800 m (5,900 ft).[99] The butterflies tend to be large, such as those from the swallowtail Parnassius family, with a habitat that ranges to 1,800 m (5,900 ft). Twelve species of beetles have habitats up to the snow line; the most beautiful and formerly collected for its colours but now protected is Rosalia alpina.[100] Spiders, such as the large wolf spider, live above the snow line and can be seen as high as 400 m (1,300 ft). Scorpions can be found in the Italian Alps.[98]

Some of the species of moths and insects show evidence of having been indigenous to the area from as long ago as the Alpine orogeny. In Émosson in Valais, Switzerland, dinosaur tracks were found in the 1970s, dating probably from the Triassic Period.[101]

History[edit]

Prehistory to Christianity[edit]

About 10,000 years ago, when the ice melted after the Würm glaciation, late Palaeolithic communities were established along the lake shores and in cave systems. Evidence of human habitation has been found in caves near Vercors, close to Grenoble and Echirolles; in Austria, the Mondsee culture shows evidence of houses built on piles to keep them dry. Standing stones have been found in the Alpine areas of France and Italy. The Rock Drawings in Valcamonica are more than 5000 years old; more than 200,000 drawings and etchings have been identified at the site.[102]

In 1991, a mummy of a neolithic body, known as Ötzi the Iceman, was discovered by hikers on the Similaun glacier. His clothing and gear indicate that he lived in an alpine farming community, while the location and manner of his death – an arrowhead was discovered in his shoulder – suggests he was travelling from one place to another.[103] Analysis of the mitochondrial DNA of Ötzi, has shown that he belongs to the K1 subclade which cannot be categorized into any of the three modern branches of that subclade. The new subclade has provisionally been named K1ö for Ötzi.[104]

Celtic tribes settled in Switzerland between 1500 and 1000 BC. The Raetians lived in the eastern regions, while the west was occupied by the Helvetii and the Allobrogi settled in the Rhône valley and in Savoy. The Ligurians and Adriatic Veneti lived in north-west Italy and Triveneto respectively. Among the many substances Celtic tribes mined was salt in areas such as Salzburg in Austria where evidence of the Hallstatt culture was found by a mine manager in the 19th century.[102] By the 6th century BC the La Tène culture was well established in the region,[105] and became known for high quality decorated weapons and jewellery.[106] The Celts were the most widespread of the mountain tribes—they had warriors that were strong, tall and fair-skinned, and skilled with iron weapons, which gave them an advantage in warfare.[107]

During the Second Punic War in 218 BC, the Carthaginian general Hannibal probably crossed the Alps with an army numbering 38,000 infantry, 8,000 cavalry, and 37 war elephants. This was one of the most celebrated achievements of any military force in ancient warfare,[108] although no evidence exists of the actual crossing or the place of crossing. The Romans, however, had built roads along the mountain passes, which continued to be used through the medieval period to cross the mountains and Roman road markers can still be found on the mountain passes.[109]

The Roman expansion brought the defeat of the Allobrogi in 121 BC and during the Gallic Wars in 58 BC Julius Caesar overcame the Helvetii. The Rhaetians continued to resist but were eventually conquered when the Romans turned northward to the Danube valley in Austria and defeated the Brigantes.[110] The Romans built settlements in the Alps; towns such as Aosta (named for Augustus) in Italy, Martigny and Lausanne in Switzerland, and Partenkirchen in Bavaria show remains of Roman baths, villas, arenas, and temples.[111] Much of the Alpine region was gradually settled by Germanic tribes, (Lombards, Alemanni, Bavarii, and Franks) from the 6th to the 13th centuries mixing with the local Celtic tribes.[112]

Christianity, feudalism, and Napoleonic wars[edit]

Christianity was established in the region by the Romans and saw the establishment of monasteries and churches in the high regions. The Frankish expansion of the Carolingian Empire and the Bavarian expansion in the eastern Alps introduced feudalism and the building of castles to support the growing number of dukedoms and kingdoms. Castello del Buonconsiglio in Trento, Italy, still has intricate frescoes, excellent examples of Gothic art, in a tower room. In Switzerland, Château de Chillon is preserved as an example of medieval architecture.[113] There are several important alpine saints and one such one is Saint Maurice[114] who gives his name to the town St. Moritz.

Much of the medieval period was a time of power struggles between competing dynasties such as the House of Savoy, the Visconti in northern Italy, and the House of Habsburg in Austria and Slovenia.[115] In 1291, to protect themselves from incursions by the Habsburgs, four cantons in the middle of Switzerland drew up a charter that is considered to be a declaration of independence from neighbouring kingdoms. After a series of battles fought in the 13th, 14th, and 15th centuries, more cantons joined the confederacy and by the 16th century, Switzerland was well-established as a separate state.[116]

Russian troops under Suvorov crossing the Alps in 1799

During the Napoleonic Wars in the late 18th century and early 19th century, Napoleon annexed territory formerly controlled by the Habsburgs and Savoys. In 1798, he established the Helvetic Republic in Switzerland; two years later he led an army across the St. Bernard pass and conquered almost all of the Alpine regions.[117]

Built from 1300 to 1500 metres high on a rock of quartzite and surrounded by deep cliffs, the Forts de l’Esseillon prevented any invasion.

After the fall of Napoléon, many alpine countries developed heavy protections to prevent any new invasion. Thus, Savoy built a series of fortifications in the Maurienne valley to protect the major alpine passes, such as the col du Mont-Cenis that was even crossed by Charlemagne and his father to defeat the Lombards. The latter indeed became very popular after the construction of a paved road ordered by Napoléon Bonaparte.
The Barrière de l’Esseillon is a series of forts with heavy batteries, built on a cliff with a perfect view of the valley, a gorge on one side, and steep mountains on the other side.

In the 19th century, the monasteries built in the high Alps during the medieval period to shelter travellers and as places of pilgrimage became tourist destinations. The Benedictines had built monasteries in Lucerne, Switzerland, and Oberammergau; the Cistercians in the Tyrol and at Lake Constance, and the Augustinians had abbeys in the Savoy and one in the centre of Interlaken, Switzerland.[118] The Great St Bernard Hospice, built in the 9th or 10th centuries, at the summit of the Great Saint Bernard Pass was a shelter for travellers and place for pilgrims since its inception; by the 19th century it became a tourist attraction with notable visitors such as author Charles Dickens and mountaineer Edward Whymper.[119]

Exploration[edit]

Radiocarbon-dated charcoal placed around 50,000 years ago was found in the Drachloch (Dragon’s Hole) cave above the village of Vattis in the canton of St. Gallen, proving that the high peaks were visited by prehistoric people. Seven bear skulls from the cave may have been buried by the same prehistoric people.[120] The peaks, however, were mostly ignored except for a few notable examples, and long left to the exclusive attention of the people of the adjoining valleys.[121][122] The mountain peaks were seen as terrifying, the abode of dragons and demons, to the point that people blindfolded themselves to cross the Alpine passes.[123] The glaciers remained a mystery and many still believed the highest areas to be inhabited by dragons.[124]

Charles VII of France ordered his chamberlain to climb Mont Aiguille in 1356. The knight reached the summit of Rocciamelone where he left a bronze triptych of three crosses, a feat which he conducted with the use of ladders to traverse the ice.[125] In 1492, Antoine de Ville climbed Mont Aiguille, without reaching the summit, an experience he described as «horrifying and terrifying.»[122] Leonardo da Vinci was fascinated by variations of light in the higher altitudes, and climbed a mountain—scholars are uncertain which one; some believe it may have been Monte Rosa. From his description of a «blue like that of a gentian» sky it is thought that he reached a significantly high altitude.[126] In the 18th century four Chamonix men almost made the summit of Mont Blanc but were overcome by altitude sickness and snowblindness.[127]

Conrad Gessner was the first naturalist to ascend the mountains in the 16th century, to study them, writing that in the mountains he found the «theatre of the Lord».[128] By the 19th century more naturalists began to arrive to explore, study and conquer the high peaks.[129] Two men who first explored the regions of ice and snow were Horace-Bénédict de Saussure (1740–1799) in the Pennine Alps,[130] and the Benedictine monk of Disentis Placidus a Spescha (1752–1833).[129] Born in Geneva, Saussure was enamoured with the mountains from an early age; he left a law career to become a naturalist and spent many years trekking through the Bernese Oberland, the Savoy, the Piedmont and Valais, studying the glaciers and geology, as he became an early proponent of the theory of rock upheaval.[131] Saussure, in 1787, was a member of the third ascent of Mont Blanc—today the summits of all the peaks have been climbed.[34]

The Romantics and Alpinists[edit]

Albrecht von Haller’s poem Die Alpen (1732) described the mountains as an area of mythical purity.[132] Jean-Jacques Rousseau was another writer who presented the Alps as a place of allure and beauty, in his novel Julie, or the New Heloise (1761), Later the first wave of Romantics such as Goethe and Turner came to admire the scenery;[133] Wordsworth visited the area in 1790, writing of his experiences in The Prelude (1799). Schiller later wrote the play William Tell (1804), which tells the story of the legendary Swiss marksman William Tell as part of the greater Swiss struggle for independence from the Habsburg Empire in the early 14th century. At the end of the Napoleonic Wars, the Alpine countries began to see an influx of poets, artists, and musicians,[134] as visitors came to experience the sublime effects of monumental nature.[135]

In 1816, Byron, Percy Bysshe Shelley and his wife Mary Shelley visited Geneva and all three were inspired by the scenery in their writings.[134] During these visits Shelley wrote the poem «Mont Blanc», Byron wrote «The Prisoner of Chillon» and the dramatic poem Manfred, and Mary Shelley, who found the scenery overwhelming, conceived the idea for the novel Frankenstein in her villa on the shores of Lake Geneva amid a thunderstorm. When Coleridge travelled to Chamonix, he declaimed, in defiance of Shelley, who had signed himself «Atheos» in the guestbook of the Hotel de Londres near Montenvers,[136] «Who would be, who could be an atheist in this valley of wonders».[137]

By the mid-19th century scientists began to arrive en masse to study the geology and ecology of the region.[138]

From the beginning of the 19th century, the tourism and mountaineering development of the Alps began. In the early years of the «golden age of alpinism» initially scientific activities were mixed with sport, for example by the physicist John Tyndall, with the first ascent of the Matterhorn by Edward Whymper being the highlight. In the later years, the «silver age of alpinism», the focus was on mountain sports and climbing. The first president of the Alpine Club, John Ball, is considered the discoverer of the Dolomites, which for decades were the focus of climbers like Paul Grohmann, Michael Innerkofler and Angelo Dibona.[139][140][141]

The Nazis[edit]

Austrian-born Adolf Hitler had a lifelong romantic fascination with the Alps and by the 1930s established a home at Berghof, in the Obersalzberg region outside of Berchtesgaden. His first visit to the area was in 1923 and he maintained a strong tie there until the end of his life. At the end of World War II, the US Army occupied Obersalzberg, to prevent Hitler from retreating with the Wehrmacht into the mountains.[142]

By 1940 many of the Alpine countries were under the control of the Axis powers. Austria underwent a political coup that made it part of the Third Reich; France had been invaded and Italy was a fascist regime. Switzerland and Liechtenstein were the only countries to avoid an Axis takeover.[143] The Swiss Confederation mobilized its troops—the country follows the doctrine of «armed neutrality» with all males required to have military training—a number that General Eisenhower estimated to be about 850,000. The Swiss commanders wired the infrastructure leading into the country with explosives, and threatened to destroy bridges, railway tunnels, and roads across passes in the event of a Nazi invasion; and if there was an invasion the Swiss army would then have retreated to the heart of the mountain peaks, where conditions were harsher, and a military invasion would involve difficult and protracted battles.[144]

German Ski troops were trained for the war, and battles were waged in mountainous areas such as the battle at Riva Ridge in Italy, where the American 10th Mountain Division encountered heavy resistance in February 1945.[145] At the end of the war, a substantial amount of Nazi plunder was found stored in Austria, where Hitler had hoped to retreat as the war drew to a close. The salt mines surrounding the Altaussee area, where American troops found 75 kg (165 lb) of gold coins stored in a single mine, were used to store looted art, jewels, and currency; vast quantities of looted art were found and returned to the owners.[146]

Largest cities[edit]

The largest city within the Alps is the city of Grenoble in France. Other larger and important cities within the Alps with over 100,000 inhabitants are in Tyrol with Bolzano (Italy), Trento (Italy) and Innsbruck (Austria). Larger cities outside the Alps are Milan, Verona, Turin (Italy), Munich (Germany), Graz, Vienna, Salzburg (Austria), Ljubljana, Maribor, Kranj (Slovenia), Zurich, Geneva (Switzerland), Nice and Lyon (France).

Cities with over 100,000 inhabitants in the Alps are:

Rank Municipality Inhabitants Country Region
1 Blason ville fr Grenoble (Isere).svg Grenoble 162,780 France Blason Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes.svg Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes
2 AUT Innsbruck COA.svg Innsbruck 132,236 Austria AUT Tirol COA.svg Tyrol
3 Trient.JPG Trento 117,417 Italy Coat of arms of Trentino-South Tyrol.svg Trentino-South Tyrol
4 ITA Bolzano COA.svg Bolzano/Bozen 106,951 Italy Coat of arms of Trentino-South Tyrol.svg Trentino-South Tyrol

Alpine people and culture[edit]

The population of the region is 14 million spread across eight countries.[5] On the rim of the mountains, on the plateaus, and on the plains the economy consists of manufacturing and service jobs whereas in the higher altitudes and the mountains farming is still essential to the economy.[147] Farming and forestry continue to be mainstays of Alpine culture, industries that provide for export to the cities and maintain the mountain ecology.[148]

The Alpine regions are multicultural and linguistically diverse. Dialects are common and vary from valley to valley and region to region. In the Slavic Alps alone 19 dialects have been identified. Some of the Romance dialects spoken in the French, Swiss and Italian alps of Aosta Valley derive from Arpitan, while the southern part of the western range is related to Occitan; the German dialects derive from Germanic tribal languages.[149] Romansh, spoken by two percent of the population in southeast Switzerland, is an ancient Rhaeto-Romanic language derived from Latin, remnants of ancient Celtic languages and perhaps Etruscan.[149]

Hallstatt is known for its production of salt, dating back to prehistoric times.

Much of the Alpine culture is unchanged since the medieval period when skills that guaranteed survival in the mountain valleys and the highest villages became mainstays, leading to strong traditions of carpentry, woodcarving, baking, pastry-making, and cheesemaking.[150]

Farming has been a traditional occupation for centuries, although it became less dominant in the 20th century with the advent of tourism. Grazing and pasture land are limited because of the steep and rocky topography of the Alps. In mid-June, cows are moved to the highest pastures close to the snowline, where they are watched by herdsmen who stay in the high altitudes often living in stone huts or wooden barns during the summers.[150] Villagers celebrate the day the cows are herded up to the pastures and again when they return in mid-September. The Almabtrieb, Alpabzug, Alpabfahrt, Désalpes («coming down from the alps») is celebrated by decorating the cows with garlands and enormous cowbells while the farmers dress in traditional costumes.[150]

In the summers the cows are brought up to the high mountain meadows for grazing. Small summer villages such as the one shown in this photograph taken in Savoy are used.

Cheesemaking is an ancient tradition in most Alpine countries. A wheel of cheese from the Emmental in Switzerland can weigh up to 45 kg (100 lb), and the Beaufort in Savoy can weigh up to 70 kg (150 lb). Owners of the cows traditionally receive from the cheesemakers a portion about the proportion of the cows’ milk from the summer months in the high alps. Haymaking is an important farming activity in mountain villages that have become somewhat mechanized in recent years, although the slopes are so steep that scythes are usually necessary to cut the grass. Hay is normally brought in twice a year, often also on festival days.[150]

In the high villages, people live in homes built according to medieval designs that withstand cold winters. The kitchen is separated from the living area (called the stube, the area of the home heated by a stove), and second-floor bedrooms benefit from rising heat. The typical Swiss chalet originated in the Bernese Oberland. Chalets often face south or downhill and are built of solid wood, with a steeply gabled roof to allow accumulated snow to slide off easily. Stairs leading to upper levels are sometimes built on the outside, and balconies are sometimes enclosed.[150][151]

Food is passed from the kitchen to the stube, where the dining room table is placed. Some meals are communal, such as fondue, where a pot is set in the middle of the table for each person to dip into. Other meals are still served traditionally on carved wooden plates. Furniture has been traditionally elaborately carved and in many Alpine countries, carpentry skills are passed from generation to generation.

Alpine chalet being built in Haute-Maurienne (Savoy), the use of thick pieces of orthogneiss (4–7 cm) is by the strict architectural regulations in the region bordering the national parks of Vanoise-Grand Paradis.

Roofs are traditionally constructed from Alpine rocks such as pieces of schist, gneiss, or slate.[152] Such chalets are typically found in the higher parts of the valleys, as in the Maurienne valley in Savoy, where the amount of snow during the cold months is important. The inclination of the roof cannot exceed 40%, allowing the snow to stay on top, thereby functioning as insulation from the cold.[153] In the lower areas where the forests are widespread, wooden tiles are traditionally used. Commonly made of Norway spruce, they are called «tavaillon».

In the German-speaking parts of the Alps (Austria, Bavaria, South Tyrol, Liechtenstein and Switzerland), there is a strong tradition of Alpine folk culture. Old traditions are carefully maintained among inhabitants of Alpine areas, even though this is seldom obvious to the visitor: many people are members of cultural associations where the Alpine folk culture is cultivated. At cultural events, traditional folk costume (in German Tracht) is expected: typically lederhosen for men and dirndls for women. Visitors can get a glimpse of the rich customs of the Alps at public Volksfeste. Even when large events feature only a little folk culture, all participants take part with gusto. Good opportunities to see local people celebrating the traditional culture occur at the many fairs, wine festivals, and firefighting festivals which fill weekends in the countryside from spring to autumn. Alpine festivals vary from country to country. Frequently they include music (e.g. the playing of Alpenhorns), dance (e.g. Schuhplattler), sports (e.g. wrestling marches and archery), as well as traditions with pagan roots such as the lighting of fires on Walpurgis Night and Saint John’s Eve. Many areas celebrate Fastnacht in the weeks before Lent. Folk costume also continues to be worn for most weddings and festivals.[154][155]

Tourism[edit]

The Alps are one of the more popular tourist destinations in the world with many resorts such as Oberstdorf, in Bavaria, Saalbach in Austria, Davos in Switzerland, Chamonix in France, and Cortina d’Ampezzo in Italy recording more than a million annual visitors. With over 120 million visitors a year, tourism is integral to the Alpine economy with much of it coming from winter sports, although summer visitors are also an important component.[156]

The tourism industry began in the early 19th century when foreigners visited the Alps, travelled to the bases of the mountains to enjoy the scenery, and stayed at the spa-resorts. Large hotels were built during the Belle Époque; cog-railways, built early in the 20th century, brought tourists to ever-higher elevations, with the Jungfraubahn terminating at the Jungfraujoch, well above the eternal snow-line, after going through a tunnel in Eiger. During this period winter sports were slowly introduced: in 1882 the first figure skating championship was held in St. Moritz, and downhill skiing became a popular sport with English visitors early in the 20th century,[156] as the first ski-lift was installed in 1908 above Grindelwald.[157]

In the first half of the 20th century the Olympic Winter Games were held three times in Alpine venues: the 1924 Winter Olympics in Chamonix, France; the 1928 Winter Olympics in St. Moritz, Switzerland; and the 1936 Winter Olympics in Garmisch-Partenkirchen, Germany. During World War II the winter games were cancelled but after that time the Winter Games have been held in St. Moritz (1948), Cortina d’Ampezzo (1956), Innsbruck, Austria (1964 and 1976), Grenoble, France, (1968), Albertville, France, (1992), and Torino (2006).[158] In 1930, the Lauberhorn Rennen (Lauberhorn Race), was run for the first time on the Lauberhorn above Wengen;[159] the equally demanding Hahnenkamm was first run in the same year in Kitzbühl, Austria.[160] Both races continue to be held each January on successive weekends. The Lauberhorn is the more strenuous downhill race at 4.5 km (2.8 mi) and poses danger to racers who reach 130 km/h (81 mph) within seconds of leaving the start gate.[161]

During the post-World War I period, ski lifts were built in Swiss and Austrian towns to accommodate winter visitors, but summer tourism continued to be important; by the mid-20th century the popularity of downhill skiing increased greatly as it became more accessible and in the 1970s several new villages were built in France devoted almost exclusively to skiing, such as Les Menuires. Until this point, Austria and Switzerland had been the traditional and more popular destinations for winter sports, but by the end of the 20th century and into the early 21st century, France, Italy, and the Tyrol began to see increases in winter visitors.[156] From 1980 to the present, ski-lifts have been modernized and snow-making machines installed at many resorts, leading to mounting concerns regarding the loss of traditional Alpine culture and uncertainties regarding sustainable development.[162] For instance the number of ski resorts and piste kilometres has declined since 2015, a likely result of climatic change.[163]

Avalanche/snow-slide[edit]

  • 17th-century French-Italian border avalanche: in the 17th century about 2500 people were killed by an avalanche in a village on the French-Italian border.
  • 19th century Zermatt avalanche: in the 19th century, 120 homes in a village near Zermatt were destroyed by an avalanche.[164]
  • December 13, 1916 Marmolada-mountain-avalanche
  • 1950–1951 winter-of-terror avalanches
  • February 10, 1970 Val d’Isère avalanche
  • February 9, 1999 Montroc avalanche
  • February 21, 1999 Evolène avalanche
  • February 23, 1999, Galtür avalanche the deadliest avalanche in the Alps in 40 years.
  • July 2014 Mont-Blanc avalanche
  • January 13, 2016 Les-Deux-Alpes avalanche
  • January 18, 2016 Valfréjus avalanche
  • July 3, 2022 Marmolada serac collapse

Transportation[edit]

The region is serviced by 4,200 km (2,600 mi) of roads used by six million vehicles per year.[5] Train travel is well established in the Alps, with, for instance 120 km (75 mi) of track for every 1,000 km2 (390 sq mi) in a country such as Switzerland.[165] Most of Europe’s highest railways are located there. In 2007, the new 34.57 km-long (21.48 mi) Lötschberg Base Tunnel was opened, which circumvents the 100 years older Lötschberg Tunnel. With the opening of the 57.1 km-long (35.5 mi) Gotthard Base Tunnel on June 1, 2016, it bypasses the Gotthard Tunnel built in the 19th century and realizes the first flat route through the Alps.[166]

Some high mountain villages are car-free either because of inaccessibility or by choice. Wengen, and Zermatt (in Switzerland) are accessible only by cable car or cog-rail trains. Avoriaz (in France), is car-free, with other Alpine villages considering becoming car-free zones or limiting the number of cars for reasons of sustainability of the fragile Alpine terrain.[167]

The lower regions and larger towns of the Alps are well-served by motorways and main roads, but higher mountain passes and byroads, which are amongst the highest in Europe, can be treacherous even in summer due to steep slopes. Many passes are closed in winter. Several airports around the Alps (and some within), as well as long-distance rail links from all neighbouring countries, afford large numbers of travellers easy access.[5]

See also[edit]

Notes[edit]

  1. ^ French: Alpes [alp]; German: Alpen [ˈalpm̩] (listen); Italian: Alpi [ˈalpi]; Romansh: Alps [alps]; Slovene: Alpe [ˈáːlpɛ].
  2. ^ The Caucasus Mountains are higher, and the Urals longer, but both lie partly in Asia.
  3. ^ Depending on the definitions used, a small mountain range in western Hungary may also qualify as part of the Alps, although these are more typically classified as foothills, and Hungary is not considered to be an Alpine country.[3]

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  116. ^ Beattie, (2006), 56, 66
  117. ^ Shoumatoff (2001), 182–183
  118. ^ Beattie, (2006), 69–70
  119. ^ Beattie, (2006), 73, 75–76
  120. ^ Shoumatoff (2001), 108
  121. ^ Coolidge, Lake & Knox 1911, p. 748.
  122. ^ a b Shoumatoff (2001), 188–191
  123. ^ Fleming (2000), 6
  124. ^ Fleming (2000), 12
  125. ^ Fleming (2000), 5
  126. ^ qtd in Shoumatoff (2001), 193
  127. ^ Shoumatoff (2001), 192–194
  128. ^ Fleming (2000), 8
  129. ^ a b Fleming (2000), vii
  130. ^ Fleming (2000), 27
  131. ^ Fleming (2000), 12–13, 30, 27
  132. ^ Beattie, (2006), 121–123
  133. ^ Goethe en Suisse et dans les Alpes: Voyages de 1775, 1779 et 1797
  134. ^ a b Fleming (2000), 83
  135. ^ Beattie, (2006), 125–126
  136. ^ Geoffrey Hartman, «Gods, Ghosts, and Shelley’s ‘Atheos'», Literature and Theology, Volume 24, Issue 1, pp. 4–18
  137. ^ Beattie, (2006), 127–133
  138. ^ Beattie, (2006), 139
  139. ^ Fleming, Fergus (November 3, 2000). «Cliffhanger at the top of the world». The Guardian.
  140. ^ Gilles Modica «1865: the Golden Age of Mountaineering» (2016), pp 10.
  141. ^ «Die Besteigung der Berge — Die Dolomitgipfel werden erobert (German: The ascent of the mountains — the dolomite peaks are conquered)».
  142. ^ Mitchell (2007), 7–10
  143. ^ Halbrook (1998), 1
  144. ^ Halbrook (2006), 1–3
  145. ^ Feuer (2006), viii
  146. ^ Mitchell (2007), 10, 151
  147. ^ Chartes et. el. (2010), 14
  148. ^ Chartes et. el. (2010), 5
  149. ^ a b Shoumataff (2001), 114–166
  150. ^ a b c d e Shoumataff (2001), 123–126
  151. ^ Shoumataff (2001), 134
  152. ^ Shoumataff (2001), 131, 134
  153. ^ «Cahier d’architecture Haute Maurienne/Vanoise» (PDF).
  154. ^ Shoumataff (2001), 129, 135
  155. ^ Anita Ericson, Österreich [Marco Polo travel guide], 13th edition, Marco Polo, Ostfildern (Germany), 2017, Pp. 21f.
  156. ^ a b c Bartaletti, Fabrizio.»What Role Do the Alps Play within World Tourism?» Archived April 27, 2009, at the Wayback Machine. Commission Internationale pour la Protection des Alpes. CIRPA.org. Retrieved August 9, 2012
  157. ^ Beattie (2006), 198
  158. ^ «21 Past Olympic Games». Olympic.org. Retrieved August 13, 2012
  159. ^ Lauberhorn History. Retrieved August 14, 2012.
  160. ^ «Hahenkamm Races Kitzbuhel» Archived February 19, 2011, at the Wayback Machine. HKR.com. Retrieved August 13, 2012,
  161. ^ Lauberhorn Downhill. Retrieved August 14, 2012.
  162. ^ Briand, F.; Dubost, M.; Pitt, D.; Rambaud, D. (1989). The Alps — A system under pressure. IUCN. p. 128. ISBN 2-88032-983-3.
  163. ^ «Ski resorts of the Alps: the development, ‘Marmota Maps’«. November 15, 2019. Retrieved October 17, 2021.
  164. ^ Fleming (2000), 89–90
  165. ^ «Rail». Archived May 27, 2013, at the Wayback Machine Swissworld.org. Retrieved August 20, 2012,
  166. ^ «Welcome to the AlpTransit Portal». Bern: Swiss Federal Archives SFA.
  167. ^ Hudson (2000), 107

Works cited[edit]

  • Alpine Convention. (2010). The Alps: People and pressures in the mountains, the facts at a glance
  • Allaby, Michael et al. The Encyclopedia of Earth. (2008). Berkeley: University of California Press. ISBN 978-0-520-25471-8
  • Beattie, Andrew. (2006). The Alps: A Cultural History. New York: Oxford University Press. ISBN 978-0-19-530955-3
  • Benniston, Martin, et al. (2011). «Impact of Climatic Change on Water and Natural Hazards in the Alps». Environmental Science and Policy. Volume 30. 1–9
  • Cebon, Peter, et al. (1998). Views from the Alps: Regional Perspectives on Climate Change. Cambridge MA: MIT Press. ISBN 978-0-262-03252-0
  • Chatré, Baptiste, et al. (2010). The Alps: People and Pressures in the Mountains, the Facts at a Glance. Permanent Secretariat of the Alpine Convention (alpconv.org). Retrieved August 4, 2012. ISBN 978-88-905158-2-8
  •  This article incorporates text from a publication now in the public domain: Coolidge, William Augustus Brevoort; Lake, Philip; Knox, Howard Vincent (1911). «Alps». Encyclopædia Britannica. Vol. 1 (11th ed.). pp. 737–754.
  • De Graciansky, Pierre-Charles et al. (2011). The Western Alps, From Rift to Passive Margin to Orogenic Belt. Amsterdam: Elsevier. ISBN 978-0-444-53724-9
  • Feuer, A.B. (2006). Packs On!: Memoirs of the 10th Mountain Division in World War II. Mechanicsburg, Pennsylvania: Stackpole Books. ISBN 978-0-8117-3289-5
  • Fleming, Fergus. (2000). Killing Dragons: The Conquest of the Alps. New York: Grove. ISBN 978-0-8021-3867-5
  • Gerrard, AJ. (1990) Mountain Environments: An Examination of the Physical Geography of Mountains. Boston: MIT Press. ISBN 978-0-262-07128-4
  • Halbrook, Stephen P. (1998). Target Switzerland: Swiss Armed Neutrality in World War II. Rockville Center, NY: Sarpedon. ISBN 978-1-885119-53-7
  • Halbrook, Stephen P. (2006). The Swiss and the Nazis: How the Alpine Republic Survived in the Shadow of the Third Reich. Havertown, PA: Casemate. ISBN 978-1-932033-42-7
  • Hudson, Simon. (2000). Snow Business: A Study of the International Ski Industry. New York: Cengage ISBN 978-0-304-70471-2
  • Körner, Christian. (2003). Alpine Plant Life. New York: Springer Verlag. ISBN 978-3-540-00347-2
  • Lancel, Serge. (1999). Hannibal. Oxford: Blackwell. ISBN 978-0-631-21848-7
  • Mitchell, Arthur H. (2007). Hitler’s Mountain. Jefferson, NC: McFarland. ISBN 978-0-7864-2458-0
  • Prevas, John. (2001). Hannibal Crosses The Alps: The Invasion Of Italy And The Punic Wars. Cambridge, MA: Da Capo Press. ISBN 978-0-306-81070-1
  • Reynolds, Kev. (2012) The Swiss Alps. Cicerone Press. ISBN 978-1-85284-465-3
  • Roth, Philipe. (2007). Minerals first Discovered in Switzerland. Lausanne, CH: Museum of Geology. ISBN 978-3-9807561-8-1
  • Schmid, Stefan M. (2004). «Regional tectonics: from the Rhine graben to the Po plain, a summary of the tectonic evolution of the Alps and their forelands». Basel: Geologisch-Paläontologisches Institut
  • Sharp, Hilary. (2002). Trekking and Climbing in the Western Alps. London: New Holland. ISBN 978-0-8117-2954-3
  • Schmid, Stefan M.; Genschuh, Bernhard; Kissling, Eduard; Schuster, Ralf (2004). «Tectonic map and overall architecture of the Alpine orogen». Eclogae Geologicae Helvetiae. 97: 93–117. doi:10.1007/s00015-004-1113-x. S2CID 22393862.
  • Shoumatoff, Nicholas and Nina. (2001). The Alps: Europe’s Mountain Heart. Ann Arbor, MI: University of Michigan Press. ISBN 978-0-472-11111-4
  • Viazzo, Pier Paolo. (1980). Upland Communities: Environment, Population and Social Structure in the Alps since the Sixteenth Century. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press. ISBN 978-0-521-30663-8

External links[edit]

  • 17, 2005 Satellite photo of the Alps, taken on August 31, 2005, by MODIS aboard Terra
  • Official website of the Alpine Space Programme This EU-co-funded programme co-finances transnational projects in the Alpine region
Alps
ISS058-E-13136 - View of Earth.jpg

The Alps seen from outer space, taken from the International Space Station

Highest point
Peak Mont Blanc
Elevation 4,808.73 m (15,776.7 ft)[1]
Coordinates 45°49′58″N 06°51′54″E / 45.83278°N 6.86500°E
Dimensions
Length 1,200 km (750 mi)
Width 250 km (160 mi)
Area 200,000 km2 (77,000 sq mi)
Naming
Native name
  • Alpi (Italian)
  • Alpes (French)
  • Alpen (German)
  • Alps (Romansh)
  • Alpe (Slovene)
  • (not including numerous dialects)
Geography

Alpenrelief 01.jpg

Relief of the Alps. See also map with international borders marked.

Countries
  • Austria
  • France
  • Germany
  • Italy
  • Liechtenstein
  • Slovenia
  • Switzerland
Range coordinates 46°30′N 09°19′E / 46.500°N 9.317°E
Geology
Orogeny Alpine orogeny
Age of rock Tertiary
Type of rock
  • Bündner schist
  • flysch
  • molasse

The Alps ()[a] are the highest and most extensive mountain range system that lies entirely in Europe,[b][2] stretching approximately 1,200 km (750 mi) across seven Alpine countries (from west to east): France, Switzerland, Italy, Liechtenstein, Austria, Germany, and Slovenia.[c][4]

The Alpine arch generally extends from Nice on the western Mediterranean to Trieste on the Adriatic and Vienna at the beginning of the Pannonian Basin. The mountains were formed over tens of millions of years as the African and Eurasian tectonic plates collided. Extreme shortening caused by the event resulted in marine sedimentary rocks rising by thrusting and folding into high mountain peaks such as Mont Blanc and the Matterhorn.

Mont Blanc spans the French–Italian border, and at 4,809 m (15,778 ft) is the highest mountain in the Alps. The Alpine region area contains 128 peaks higher than 4,000 m (13,000 ft).

The altitude and size of the range affect the climate in Europe; in the mountains, precipitation levels vary greatly and climatic conditions consist of distinct zones. Wildlife such as ibex live in the higher peaks to elevations of 3,400 m (11,155 ft), and plants such as edelweiss grow in rocky areas in lower elevations as well as in higher elevations.

Evidence of human habitation in the Alps goes back to the Palaeolithic era. A mummified man, determined to be 5,000 years old, was discovered on a glacier at the Austrian–Italian border in 1991.

By the 6th century BC, the Celtic La Tène culture was well established. Hannibal notably crossed the Alps with a herd of elephants, and the Romans had settlements in the region. In 1800, Napoleon crossed one of the mountain passes with an army of 40,000. The 18th and 19th centuries saw an influx of naturalists, writers, and artists, in particular, the Romantics, followed by the golden age of alpinism as mountaineers began to ascend the peaks.

The Alpine region has a strong cultural identity. The traditional culture of farming, cheesemaking, and woodworking still exists in Alpine villages, although the tourist industry began to grow early in the 20th century and expanded greatly after World War II to become the dominant industry by the end of the century.

The Winter Olympic Games have been hosted in the Swiss, French, Italian, Austrian and German Alps. As of 2010, the region is home to 14 million people and has 120 million annual visitors.[5]

Etymology and toponymy[edit]

An «Alp» refers to a high elevation pasture frequented only in summer. It often includes several huts and small places of worship (here the Alpe Bardughè in Ticino).

The English word Alps comes from the Latin Alpes.

The Latin word Alpes could possibly come from the adjective albus[6] («white»), or could possibly come from the Greek goddess Alphito, whose name is related to alphita, the «white flour»; alphos, a dull white leprosy; and finally the Proto-Indo-European word *albʰós. Similarly, the river god Alpheus is also supposed to derive from the Greek alphos and means whitish.[7]

In his commentary on the Aeneid of Vergil, the late fourth-century grammarian Maurus Servius Honoratus says that all high mountains are called Alpes by Celts.[8]

According to the Oxford English Dictionary, the Latin Alpes might derive from a pre-Indo-European word *alb «hill»; «Albania» is a related derivation. Albania, a name not native to the region known as the country of Albania, has been used as a name for several mountainous areas across Europe.

In Roman times, «Albania» was a name for the eastern Caucasus, while in the English languages «Albania» (or «Albany») was occasionally used as a name for Scotland,[9] although it is more likely derived from the Latin word albus,[6] the color white.

In modern languages the term alp, alm, albe or alpe refers to a grazing pastures in the alpine regions below the glaciers, not the peaks.[10]

An alp refers to a high mountain pasture, typically near or above the tree line, where cows and other livestock are taken to be grazed during the summer months and where huts and hay barns can be found, sometimes constituting tiny hamlets. Therefore, the term «the Alps», as a reference to the mountains, is a misnomer.[11][12] The term for the mountain peaks varies by nation and language: words such as Horn, Kogel, Kopf, Gipfel, Spitze, Stock, and Berg are used in German-speaking regions; Mont, Pic, Tête, Pointe, Dent, Roche, and Aiguille in French-speaking regions; and Monte, Picco, Corno, Punta, Pizzo, or Cima in Italian-speaking regions.[13]

Geography[edit]

The Alps extend in an arc from France in the south and west to Slovenia in the east, and from Monaco in the south to Germany in the north.

The Alps are a crescent shaped geographic feature of central Europe that ranges in an 800 km (500 mi) arc (curved line) from east to west and is 200 km (120 mi) in width. The mean height of the mountain peaks is 2.5 km (1.6 mi).[14] The range stretches from the Mediterranean Sea north above the Po basin, extending through France from Grenoble, and stretching eastward through mid and southern Switzerland. The range continues onward toward Vienna, Austria, and east to the Adriatic Sea and Slovenia.[15][16][17]

To the south it dips into northern Italy and to the north extends to the southern border of Bavaria in Germany.[17] In areas like Chiasso, Switzerland, and Allgäu, Bavaria, the demarcation between the mountain range and the flatlands are clear; in other places such as Geneva, the demarcation is less clear.

The countries with the greatest alpine territory are Austria (28.7% of the total area), Italy (27.2%), France (21.4%) and Switzerland (13.2%).[18]

Aerial view of the Pennine Alps, the second-highest range of the Alps

The highest portion of the range is divided by the glacial trough of the Rhône valley, from Mont Blanc to the Matterhorn and Monte Rosa on the southern side, and the Bernese Alps on the northern. The peaks in the easterly portion of the range, in Austria and Slovenia, are smaller than those in the central and western portions.[17]

The variances in nomenclature in the region spanned by the Alps make classification of the mountains and subregions difficult, but a general classification is that of the Eastern Alps and Western Alps with the divide between the two occurring in eastern Switzerland according to geologist Stefan Schmid,[10] near the Splügen Pass.

A typical alpine village in the Tuxertal valley of Tyrol, Austria

The highest peaks of the Western Alps and Eastern Alps, respectively, are Mont Blanc, at 4,810 m (15,780 ft)[19] and Piz Bernina at 4,049 m (13,284 ft). The second-highest major peaks are Monte Rosa at 4,634 m (15,203 ft) and Ortler,[20] at 3,905 m (12,810 ft), respectively.

A Series of lower mountain ranges run parallel to the main chain of the Alps, including the French Prealps in France and the Jura Mountains in Switzerland and France. The secondary chain of the Alps follows the watershed from the Mediterranean Sea to the Wienerwald, passing over many of the highest and most well-known peaks in the Alps.
From the Colle di Cadibona to Col de Tende it runs westwards, before turning to the northwest and then, near the Colle della Maddalena, to the north. Upon reaching the Swiss border, the line of the main chain heads approximately east-northeast, a heading it follows until its end near Vienna.[21]

The northeast end of the Alpine arc directly on the Danube, which flows into the Black Sea, is the Leopoldsberg near Vienna. In contrast, the southeastern part of the Alps ends on the Adriatic Sea in the area around Trieste towards Duino and Barcola.[22]

Passes[edit]

Teufelsbrücke (Devil’s Bridge) on the route to the Gotthard Pass; the currently used bridge from 1958 over the first drivable bridge from 1830

The Alps have been crossed for war and commerce, and by pilgrims, students and tourists. Crossing routes by road, train, or foot are known as passes, and usually consist of depressions in the mountains in which a valley leads from the plains and hilly pre-mountainous zones.[23]

In the medieval period hospices were established by religious orders at the summits of many of the main passes.[12] The most important passes are the Col de l’Iseran (the highest), the Col Agnel, the Brenner Pass, the Mont-Cenis, the Great St. Bernard Pass, the Col de Tende, the Gotthard Pass, the Semmering Pass, the Simplon Pass, and the Stelvio Pass.[24]

Crossing the Italian-Austrian border, the Brenner Pass separates the Ötztal Alps and Zillertal Alps and has been in use as a trading route since the 14th century. The lowest of the Alpine passes at 985 m (3,232 ft), the Semmering crosses from Lower Austria to Styria; since the 12th century when a hospice was built there, it has seen continuous use. A railroad with a tunnel 1.6 km (1 mi) long was built along the route of the pass in the mid-19th century. With a summit of 2,469 m (8,100 ft), the Great St. Bernard Pass is one of the highest in the Alps, crossing the Italian-Swiss border east of the Pennine Alps along the flanks of Mont Blanc. The pass was used by Napoleon Bonaparte to cross 40,000 troops in 1800.[25]

The col du Mont-Cenis (2,081 m (6,827 ft)) at the centre left of the picture gives access to a large alpine lake, and further away to the Italian peninsula 12 kilometres (7.5 mi) beyond the pass.

The Mont Cenis pass has been a major commercial and military road between Western Europe and Italy. The pass was crossed by many troops on their way to the Italian peninsula. From Constantine I, Pepin the Short and Charlemagne to Henry IV, Napoléon and more recently the German Gebirgsjägers during World War II.[26]

Now the pass has been supplanted by the Fréjus Highway Tunnel (opened 1980) and Rail Tunnel (opened 1871).[27]

The Saint Gotthard Pass crosses from Central Switzerland to Ticino; in 1882 the 15 km-long (9.3 mi) Saint Gotthard Railway Tunnel was opened connecting Lucerne in Switzerland, with Milan in Italy. 98 years later followed Gotthard Road Tunnel (16.9 km (10.5 mi) long) connecting the A2 motorway in Göschenen on the north side with Airolo on the south side, exactly like the railway tunnel.[28]

On 1 June 2016 the world’s longest railway tunnel, the Gotthard Base Tunnel was opened, which connects Erstfeld in canton of Uri with Bodio in canton of Ticino by two single tubes of 57.1 km (35.5 mi).[29]

It is the first tunnel that traverses the Alps on a flat route.[30]

From 11 December 2016, it has been part of the regular railway timetable and used hourly as standard ride between Basel/Lucerne/Zurich and Bellinzona/Lugano/Milan.[31]

The highest pass in the alps is the Col de l’Iseran in Savoy (France) at 2,770 m (9,088 ft), followed by the Stelvio Pass in northern Italy at 2,756 m (9,042 ft); the road was built in the 1820s.[24]

Highest mountains[edit]

The Eiger (shown along with the Mönch and the Jungfrau) has the tallest north face in the Alps.

The Union Internationale des Associations d’Alpinisme (UIAA) has defined a list of 82 «official» Alpine summits that reach at least 4,000 m (13,123 ft).[32] The list includes not only mountains, but also subpeaks with little prominence that are considered important mountaineering objectives. Below are listed the 29 «four-thousanders» with at least 300 m (984 ft) of prominence.

While Mont Blanc was first climbed in 1786 and the Jungfrau in 1811, most of the Alpine four-thousanders were climbed during the second half of the 19th century, notably Piz Bernina (1850), the Dom (1858), the Grand Combin (1859), the Weisshorn (1861) and the Barre des Écrins (1864); the ascent of the Matterhorn in 1865 marked the end of the golden age of alpinism. Karl Blodig (1859–1956) was among the first to successfully climb all the major 4,000 m peaks. He completed his series of ascents in 1911.[33] Many of the big Alpine three-thousanders were climbed in the early 19th century, notably the Grossglockner (1800) and the Ortler (1804), although some of them were climbed only much later, such at Mont Pelvoux (1848), Monte Viso (1861) and La Meije (1877).

The first British Mont Blanc ascent by a man was in 1788; the first ascent by a woman was in 1808. By the mid-1850s Swiss mountaineers had ascended most of the peaks and were eagerly sought as mountain guides. Edward Whymper reached the top of the Matterhorn in 1865 (after seven attempts), and in 1938 the last of the six great north faces of the Alps was climbed with the first ascent of the Eiger Nordwand (north face of the Eiger).[34]

The 29 Alpine four-thousanders with at least 300 metres of topographic prominence[35]

Name Height Name Height Name Height
Mont Blanc 4,810 m (15,781 ft) Grandes Jorasses 4,208 m (13,806 ft) Barre des Écrins 4,102 m (13,458 ft)
Monte Rosa 4,634 m (15,203 ft) Alphubel 4,206 m (13,799 ft) Schreckhorn 4,078 m (13,379 ft)
Dom 4,545 m (14,911 ft) Rimpfischhorn 4,199 m (13,776 ft) Ober Gabelhorn 4,063 m (13,330 ft)
Lyskamm 4,533 m (14,872 ft) Aletschhorn 4,193 m (13,757 ft) Gran Paradiso 4,061 m (13,323 ft)
Weisshorn 4,506 m (14,783 ft) Strahlhorn 4,190 m (13,747 ft) Piz Bernina 4,049 m (13,284 ft)
Matterhorn 4,478 m (14,692 ft) Dent d’Hérens 4,174 m (13,694 ft) Gross Fiescherhorn 4,049 m (13,284 ft)
Dent Blanche 4,357 m (14,295 ft) Breithorn 4,164 m (13,661 ft) Gross Grünhorn 4,047 m (13,278 ft)
Grand Combin 4,314 m (14,154 ft) Jungfrau 4,158 m (13,642 ft) Weissmies 4,017 m (13,179 ft)
Finsteraarhorn 4,274 m (14,022 ft) Aiguille Verte 4,122 m (13,524 ft) Lagginhorn 4,010 m (13,156 ft)
Zinalrothorn 4,221 m (13,848 ft) Mönch 4,107 m (13,474 ft) list continued here

Geology and orogeny[edit]

Important geological concepts were established as naturalists began studying the rock formations of the Alps in the 18th century. In the mid-19th century, the now-defunct theory of geosynclines was used to explain the presence of «folded» mountain chains but by the mid-20th century the theory of plate tectonics became widely accepted.[36]

The geologic folding seen at the Arpanaz waterfall, shown here in a mid-18th-century drawing, was noted by 18th-century geologists.[37]

The formation of the Alps (the Alpine orogeny) was an episodic process that began about 300 million years ago.[38] In the Paleozoic Era the Pangaean supercontinent consisted of a single tectonic plate; it broke into separate plates during the Mesozoic Era and the Tethys sea developed between Laurasia and Gondwana during the Jurassic Period.[36] The Tethys was later squeezed between colliding plates causing the formation of mountain ranges called the Alpide belt, from Gibraltar through the Himalayas to Indonesia—a process that began at the end of the Mesozoic and continues into the present. The formation of the Alps was a segment of this orogenic process,[36] caused by the collision between the African and the Eurasian plates[39] that began in the late Cretaceous Period.[40]

Under extreme compressive stresses and pressure, marine sedimentary rocks were uplifted, creating characteristic recumbent folds, or nappes, and thrust faults.[41] As the rising peaks underwent erosion, a layer of marine flysch sediments was deposited in the foreland basin, and the sediments became involved in younger nappes (folds) as the orogeny progressed. Coarse sediments from the continual uplift and erosion were later deposited in foreland areas as molasse.[39] The molasse regions in Switzerland and Bavaria were well-developed and saw further upthrusting of flysch.[42]

The Alpine orogeny occurred in ongoing cycles through to the Paleogene causing differences in nappe structures, with a late-stage orogeny causing the development of the Jura Mountains.[43] A series of tectonic events in the Triassic, Jurassic and Cretaceous periods caused different paleogeographic regions.[43] The Alps are subdivided by different lithology (rock composition) and nappe structures according to the orogenic events that affected them.[10] The geological subdivision differentiates the Western, Eastern Alps, and Southern Alps: the Helveticum in the north, the Penninicum and Austroalpine system in the centre and, south of the Periadriatic Seam, the Southern Alpine system.[44]

Compressed metamorphosed Tethyan sediments and their oceanic basement are sandwiched between the tip of the Matterhorn (Italian-Swiss border), which consists of gneisses originally part of the African plate, and the base of the peak, which is part of the Eurasian plate.[37]

According to geologist Stefan Schmid, because the Western Alps underwent a metamorphic event in the Cenozoic Era while the Austroalpine peaks underwent an event in the Cretaceous Period, the two areas show distinct differences in nappe formations.[43] Flysch deposits in the Southern Alps of Lombardy probably occurred in the Cretaceous or later.[43]

Peaks in France, Italy and Switzerland lie in the «Houillière zone», which consists of basement with sediments from the Mesozoic Era.[44] High «massifs» with external sedimentary cover are more common in the Western Alps and were affected by Neogene Period thin-skinned thrusting whereas the Eastern Alps have comparatively few high peaked massifs.[42] Similarly the peaks in eastern Switzerland extending to western Austria (Helvetic nappes) consist of thin-skinned sedimentary folding that detached from former basement rock.[45]

In simple terms, the structure of the Alps consists of layers of rock of European, African, and oceanic (Tethyan) origin.[46] The bottom nappe structure is of continental European origin, above which are stacked marine sediment nappes, topped off by nappes derived from the African plate.[47] The Matterhorn is an example of the ongoing orogeny and shows evidence of great folding. The tip of the mountain consists of gneisses from the African plate; the base of the peak, below the glaciated area, consists of European basement rock. The sequence of Tethyan marine sediments and their oceanic basement is sandwiched between rock derived from the African and European plates.[37]

Haute Maurienne (Ambin and Vanoise massifs) and its exposed crystalline basement made of high-pressure subduction rocks such as blueschist and metaquartzite (picture taken at 2,400 metres or 7,900 feet)

The core regions of the Alpine orogenic belt have been folded and fractured in such a manner that erosion created the characteristic steep vertical peaks of the Swiss Alps that rise seemingly straight out of the foreland areas.[40] Peaks such as Mont Blanc, the Matterhorn, and high peaks in the Pennine Alps, the Briançonnais, and Hohe Tauern consist of layers of rock from the various orogenies including exposures of basement rock.[48]

Due to the ever-present geologic instability, earthquakes continue in the Alps to this day.[49] Typically, the largest earthquakes in the alps have been between magnitude 6 and 7 on the Richter scale.[50] Geodetic measurements show ongoing topographic uplift at rates of up to about 2.5 mm/a in the North, Western and Central Alps, and at ~1 mm/a in the Eastern and South-Western Alps.[51] The underlying mechanisms that jointly drive the present-day uplift pattern are the isostatic rebound due to the melting of the last glacial maximum ice-cap or long-term erosion, detachment of the Western Alpine subducting slab, mantle convection as well as ongoing horizontal convergence between Africa and Europe, but their relative contributions to the uplift of the Alps are difficult to quantify and likely to vary significantly in space and time.[51]

Minerals[edit]

The Alps are a source of minerals that have been mined for thousands of years. In the 8th to 6th centuries, BC during the Hallstatt culture, Celtic tribes mined copper; later the Romans mined gold for coins in the Bad Gastein area. Erzberg in Styria furnishes high-quality iron ore for the steel industry. Crystals, such as cinnabar, amethyst, and quartz, are found throughout much of the Alpine region. The cinnabar deposits in Slovenia are a notable source of cinnabar pigments.[52]

Alpine crystals have been studied and collected for hundreds of years and began to be classified in the 18th century. Leonhard Euler studied the shapes of crystals, and by the 19th-century crystal hunting was common in Alpine regions. David Friedrich Wiser amassed a collection of 8000 crystals that he studied and documented. In the 20th century Robert Parker wrote a well-known work about the rock crystals of the Swiss Alps; at the same period a commission was established to control and standardize the naming of Alpine minerals.[53]

Glaciers[edit]

In the Miocene Epoch the mountains underwent severe erosion because of glaciation,[40] which was noted in the mid-19th century by naturalist Louis Agassiz who presented a paper proclaiming the Alps were covered in ice at various intervals—a theory he formed when studying rocks near his Neuchâtel home which he believed originated to the west in the Bernese Oberland. Because of his work he came to be known as the «father of the ice-age concept» although other naturalists before him put forth similar ideas.[54]

Agassiz studied glacier movement in the 1840s at the Unteraar Glacier where he found the glacier moved 100 m (328 ft) per year, more rapidly in the middle than at the edges. His work was continued by other scientists and now a permanent laboratory exists inside a glacier under the Jungfraujoch, devoted exclusively to the study of Alpine glaciers.[54]

Glaciers pick up rocks and sediment with them as they flow. This causes erosion and the formation of valleys over time. The Inn valley is an example of a valley carved by glaciers during the ice ages with a typical terraced structure caused by erosion. Eroded rocks from the most recent ice age lie at the bottom of the valley while the top of the valley consists of erosion from earlier ice ages.[54] Glacial valleys have characteristically steep walls (reliefs); valleys with lower reliefs and talus slopes are remnants of glacial troughs or previously infilled valleys.[55] Moraines, piles of rock picked up during the movement of the glacier, accumulate at edges, centre, and the terminus of glaciers.[54]

Alpine glaciers can be straight rivers of ice, long sweeping rivers, spread in a fan-like shape (Piedmont glaciers), and curtains of ice that hang from vertical slopes of the mountain peaks. The stress of the movement causes the ice to break and crack loudly, perhaps explaining why the mountains were believed to be home to dragons in the medieval period. The cracking creates unpredictable and dangerous crevasses, often invisible under new snowfall, which causes the greatest danger to mountaineers.[56]

Glaciers end in ice caves (the Rhône Glacier), by trailing into a lake or river, or by shedding snowmelt on a meadow. Sometimes a piece of glacier will detach or break resulting in flooding, property damage, and loss of life.[56]

High levels of precipitation cause the glaciers to descend to permafrost levels in some areas whereas in other, more arid regions, glaciers remain above about the 3,500 m (11,483 ft) level.[57] The 1,817 km2 (702 sq mi) of the Alps covered by glaciers in 1876 had shrunk to 1,342 km2 (518 sq mi) by 1973, resulting in decreased river run-off levels.[58] Forty percent of the glaciation in Austria has disappeared since 1850, and 30% of that in Switzerland.[59]

Although the Alpine topography shows marked glacial morphologies,[60] the mechanisms by which glacial reshaping occurs are unclear. Numerical modeling suggests that glacial erosion propagates from low elevations to high elevations leading to an early increase of local relief followed by lowering of the mean orogen elevation.[61]

Rivers and lakes[edit]

The Alps provide lowland Europe with drinking water, irrigation, and hydroelectric power.[63] Although the area is only about 11% of the surface area of Europe, the Alps provide up to 90% of water to lowland Europe, particularly to arid areas and during the summer months. Cities such as Milan depend on 80% of water from Alpine runoff.[15][64][65] Water from the rivers is used in at least 550 hydroelectricity power plants, considering only those producing at least 10MW of electricity.[66]

Major European rivers flow from the Alps, such as the Rhine, the Rhône, the Inn, and the Po, all of which have headwaters in the Alps and flow into neighbouring countries, finally emptying into the North Sea, the Mediterranean Sea, the Adriatic Sea and the Black Sea. Other rivers such as the Danube have major tributaries flowing into them that originate in the Alps.[15]

The Rhône is second to the Nile as a freshwater source to the Mediterranean Sea; the river begins as glacial meltwater, flows into Lake Geneva, and from there to France where one of its uses is to cool nuclear power plants.[67] The Rhine originates in a 30 km2 (12 sq mi) area in Switzerland and represents almost 60% of water exported from the country.[67] Tributary valleys, some of which are complicated, channel water to the main valleys which can experience flooding during the snowmelt season when rapid runoff causes debris torrents and swollen rivers.[68]

The rivers form lakes, such as Lake Geneva, a crescent-shaped lake crossing the Swiss border with Lausanne on the Swiss side and the town of Evian-les-Bains on the French side. In Germany, the medieval St. Bartholomew’s chapel was built on the south side of the Königssee, accessible only by boat or by climbing over the abutting peaks.[69]

Additionally, the Alps have led to the creation of large lakes in Italy. For instance, the Sarca, the primary inflow of Lake Garda, originates in the Italian Alps.[70] The Italian Lakes are a popular tourist destination since the Roman Era for their mild climate.

Scientists have been studying the impact of climate change and water use. For example, each year more water is diverted from rivers for snowmaking in the ski resorts, the effect of which is yet unknown. Furthermore, the decrease of glaciated areas combined with a succession of winters with lower-than-expected precipitation may have a future impact on the rivers in the Alps as well as an effect on the water availability to the lowlands.[64][71]

Climate[edit]

The Alps are a classic example of what happens when a temperate area at lower altitude gives way to higher-elevation terrain. Elevations around the world that have cold climates similar to those of the polar regions have been called Alpine. A rise from sea level into the upper regions of the atmosphere causes the temperature to decrease (see adiabatic lapse rate). The effect of mountain chains on prevailing winds is to carry warm air belonging to the lower region into an upper zone, where it expands in volume at the cost of a proportionate loss of temperature, often accompanied by precipitation in the form of snow or rain.[72] The height of the Alps is sufficient to divide the weather patterns in Europe into a wet north and dry south because moisture is sucked from the air as it flows over the high peaks.[73]

The Aletsch Glacier with pine trees growing on the hillside (2007; the surface is 180 m (590 ft) lower than 150 years ago)

The severe weather in the Alps has been studied since the 18th century; particularly the weather patterns such as the seasonal foehn wind. Numerous weather stations were placed in the mountains early in the early 20th century, providing continuous data for climatologists.[14] Some of the valleys are quite arid such as the Aosta valley in Italy, the Maurienne in France, the Valais in Switzerland, and northern Tyrol.[14]

The areas that are not arid and receive high precipitation experience periodic flooding from rapid snowmelt and runoff.[68] The mean precipitation in the Alps ranges from a low of 2,600 mm (100 in) per year to 3,600 mm (140 in) per year, with the higher levels occurring at high altitudes. At altitudes between 1,000 and 3,000 m (3,300 and 9,800 ft), snowfall begins in November and accumulates through to April or May when the melt begins. Snow lines vary from 2,400 to 3,000 m (7,900 to 9,800 ft), above which the snow is permanent and the temperatures hover around the freezing point even during July and August. High-water levels in streams and rivers peak in June and July when the snow is still melting at the higher altitudes.[74]

The Alps are split into five climatic zones, each with different vegetation. The climate, plant life, and animal life vary among the different sections or zones of the mountains. The lowest zone is the colline zone, which exists between 500 and 1,000 m (1,600 and 3,300 ft), depending on the location. The montane zone extends from 800 to 1,700 m (2,600 to 5,600 ft), followed by the sub-Alpine zone from 1,600 to 2,400 m (5,200 to 7,900 ft). The Alpine zone, extending from tree line to the snow line, is followed by the glacial zone, which covers the glaciated areas of the mountain. Climatic conditions show variances within the same zones; for example, weather conditions at the head of a mountain valley, extending directly from the peaks, are colder and more severe than those at the mouth of a valley which tend to be less severe and receive less snowfall.[75]

Various models of climate change have been projected into the 22nd century for the Alps, with an expectation that a trend toward increased temperatures will have an effect on snowfall, snowpack, glaciation, and river runoff.[76][77] Significant changes, of both natural and anthropogenic origins, have already been diagnosed from observations.[78][79][80]

Ecology[edit]

Flora[edit]

Thirteen thousand species of plants have been identified in the Alpine regions.[5] Alpine plants are grouped by habitat and soil type which can be limestone or non-calcareous. The habitats range from meadows, bogs, and woodland (deciduous and coniferous) areas to soil-less scree and moraines, and rock faces and ridges.[11] A natural vegetation limit with altitude is given by the presence of the chief deciduous trees—oak, beech, ash and sycamore maple. These do not reach the same elevation, nor are they often found growing together, but their upper limit corresponds accurately enough to the change from a temperate to a colder climate that is further proved by a change in the presence of wild herbaceous vegetation.[81] This limit usually lies about 1,200 m (3,900 ft) above the sea on the north side of the Alps, but on the southern slopes it often rises to 1,500 m (4,900 ft), sometimes even to 1,700 m (5,600 ft).[82]

Above the forestry, there is often a band of short pine trees (Pinus mugo), which is in turn superseded by Alpenrosen, dwarf shrubs, typically Rhododendron ferrugineum (on acid soils) or Rhododendron hirsutum (on alkaline soils).[83] Although Alpenrose prefers acidic soil, the plants are found throughout the region.[11] Above the tree line is the area defined as «alpine» where in the alpine meadow plants are found that have adapted well to harsh conditions of cold temperatures, aridity, and high altitudes. The alpine area fluctuates greatly because of regional fluctuations in tree lines.[84]

Alpine plants such as the Alpine gentian grow in abundance in areas such as the meadows above the Lauterbrunnental. Gentians are named after the Illyrian king Gentius, and 40 species of the early-spring blooming flower grow in the Alps, in a range of 1,500 to 2,400 m (4,900 to 7,900 ft).[85] Writing about the gentians in Switzerland D. H. Lawrence described them as «darkening the day-time, torch-like with the smoking blueness of Pluto’s gloom.»[86] Gentians tend to «appear» repeatedly as the spring blooming takes place at progressively later dates, moving from the lower altitude to the higher altitude meadows where the snow melts much later than in the valleys. On the highest rocky ledges, the spring flowers bloom in the summer.[11]

At these higher altitudes, the plants tend to form isolated cushions. In the Alps, several species of flowering plants have been recorded above 4,000 m (13,000 ft), including Ranunculus glacialis, Androsace alpina and Saxifraga biflora. Eritrichium nanum, commonly known as the King of the Alps, is the most elusive of the alpine flowers, growing on rocky ridges at 2,600 to 3,750 m (8,530 to 12,300 ft).[87] Perhaps the best known of the alpine plants is Edelweiss which grows in rocky areas and can be found at altitudes as low as 1,200 m (3,900 ft) and as high as 3,400 m (11,200 ft).[11] The plants that grow at the highest altitudes have adapted to conditions by specialization such as growing in rock screes that give protection from winds.[88]

The extreme and stressful climatic conditions give way to the growth of plant species with secondary metabolites important for medicinal purposes. Origanum vulgare, Prunella vulgaris, Solanum nigrum, and Urtica dioica are some of the more useful medicinal species found in the Alps.[89]

Human interference has nearly exterminated the trees in many areas, and, except for the beech forests of the Austrian Alps, forests of deciduous trees are rarely found after the extreme deforestation between the 17th and 19th centuries.[90] The vegetation has changed since the second half of the 20th century, as the high alpine meadows cease to be harvested for hay or used for grazing which eventually might result in a regrowth of the forest. In some areas, the modern practice of building ski runs by mechanical means has destroyed the underlying tundra from which the plant life cannot recover during the non-skiing months, whereas areas that still practice a natural piste type of ski slope building preserve the fragile underlayers.[88]

Fauna[edit]

The Alps are a habitat for 30,000 species of wildlife, ranging from the tiniest snow fleas to brown bears, many of which have made adaptations to the harsh cold conditions and high altitudes to the point that some only survive in specific micro-climates either directly above or below the snow line.[5][91]

Young alpine ibex. When fully grown the horns of this male will be about one metre wide.

The largest mammal to live in the highest altitudes are the alpine ibex, which have been sighted as high as 3,000 m (9,800 ft). The ibex live in caves and descend to eat the succulent alpine grasses.[92] Classified as antelopes,[11] chamois are smaller than ibex and found throughout the Alps, living above the tree line and are common in the entire alpine range.[93] Areas of the eastern Alps are still home to brown bears. In Switzerland the canton of Bern was named for the bears but the last bear is recorded as having been killed in 1792 above Kleine Scheidegg by three hunters from Grindelwald.[94]

Many rodents such as voles live underground. Marmots live almost exclusively above the tree line as high as 2,700 m (8,900 ft). They hibernate in large groups to provide warmth,[95] and can be found in all areas of the Alps, in large colonies they build beneath the alpine pastures.[11] Golden eagles and bearded vultures are the largest birds to be found in the Alps; they nest high on rocky ledges and can be found at altitudes of 2,400 m (7,900 ft). The most common bird is the alpine chough which can be found scavenging at climber’s huts or the Jungfraujoch, a high-altitude tourist destination.[96]

Reptiles such as adders and vipers live up to the snow line; because they cannot bear the cold temperatures they hibernate underground and soak up the warmth on rocky ledges.[97] The high-altitude Alpine salamanders have adapted to living above the snow line by giving birth to fully developed young rather than laying eggs. Brown trout can be found in the streams up to the snow line.[97] Molluscs such as the wood snail live up the snow line. Popularly gathered as food, the snails are now protected.[98]

Several species of moths live in the Alps, some of which are believed to have evolved in the same habitat up to 120 million years ago, long before the Alps were created. Blue butterflies can commonly be seen drinking from the snowmelt; some species of blues fly as high as 1,800 m (5,900 ft).[99] The butterflies tend to be large, such as those from the swallowtail Parnassius family, with a habitat that ranges to 1,800 m (5,900 ft). Twelve species of beetles have habitats up to the snow line; the most beautiful and formerly collected for its colours but now protected is Rosalia alpina.[100] Spiders, such as the large wolf spider, live above the snow line and can be seen as high as 400 m (1,300 ft). Scorpions can be found in the Italian Alps.[98]

Some of the species of moths and insects show evidence of having been indigenous to the area from as long ago as the Alpine orogeny. In Émosson in Valais, Switzerland, dinosaur tracks were found in the 1970s, dating probably from the Triassic Period.[101]

History[edit]

Prehistory to Christianity[edit]

About 10,000 years ago, when the ice melted after the Würm glaciation, late Palaeolithic communities were established along the lake shores and in cave systems. Evidence of human habitation has been found in caves near Vercors, close to Grenoble and Echirolles; in Austria, the Mondsee culture shows evidence of houses built on piles to keep them dry. Standing stones have been found in the Alpine areas of France and Italy. The Rock Drawings in Valcamonica are more than 5000 years old; more than 200,000 drawings and etchings have been identified at the site.[102]

In 1991, a mummy of a neolithic body, known as Ötzi the Iceman, was discovered by hikers on the Similaun glacier. His clothing and gear indicate that he lived in an alpine farming community, while the location and manner of his death – an arrowhead was discovered in his shoulder – suggests he was travelling from one place to another.[103] Analysis of the mitochondrial DNA of Ötzi, has shown that he belongs to the K1 subclade which cannot be categorized into any of the three modern branches of that subclade. The new subclade has provisionally been named K1ö for Ötzi.[104]

Celtic tribes settled in Switzerland between 1500 and 1000 BC. The Raetians lived in the eastern regions, while the west was occupied by the Helvetii and the Allobrogi settled in the Rhône valley and in Savoy. The Ligurians and Adriatic Veneti lived in north-west Italy and Triveneto respectively. Among the many substances Celtic tribes mined was salt in areas such as Salzburg in Austria where evidence of the Hallstatt culture was found by a mine manager in the 19th century.[102] By the 6th century BC the La Tène culture was well established in the region,[105] and became known for high quality decorated weapons and jewellery.[106] The Celts were the most widespread of the mountain tribes—they had warriors that were strong, tall and fair-skinned, and skilled with iron weapons, which gave them an advantage in warfare.[107]

During the Second Punic War in 218 BC, the Carthaginian general Hannibal probably crossed the Alps with an army numbering 38,000 infantry, 8,000 cavalry, and 37 war elephants. This was one of the most celebrated achievements of any military force in ancient warfare,[108] although no evidence exists of the actual crossing or the place of crossing. The Romans, however, had built roads along the mountain passes, which continued to be used through the medieval period to cross the mountains and Roman road markers can still be found on the mountain passes.[109]

The Roman expansion brought the defeat of the Allobrogi in 121 BC and during the Gallic Wars in 58 BC Julius Caesar overcame the Helvetii. The Rhaetians continued to resist but were eventually conquered when the Romans turned northward to the Danube valley in Austria and defeated the Brigantes.[110] The Romans built settlements in the Alps; towns such as Aosta (named for Augustus) in Italy, Martigny and Lausanne in Switzerland, and Partenkirchen in Bavaria show remains of Roman baths, villas, arenas, and temples.[111] Much of the Alpine region was gradually settled by Germanic tribes, (Lombards, Alemanni, Bavarii, and Franks) from the 6th to the 13th centuries mixing with the local Celtic tribes.[112]

Christianity, feudalism, and Napoleonic wars[edit]

Christianity was established in the region by the Romans and saw the establishment of monasteries and churches in the high regions. The Frankish expansion of the Carolingian Empire and the Bavarian expansion in the eastern Alps introduced feudalism and the building of castles to support the growing number of dukedoms and kingdoms. Castello del Buonconsiglio in Trento, Italy, still has intricate frescoes, excellent examples of Gothic art, in a tower room. In Switzerland, Château de Chillon is preserved as an example of medieval architecture.[113] There are several important alpine saints and one such one is Saint Maurice[114] who gives his name to the town St. Moritz.

Much of the medieval period was a time of power struggles between competing dynasties such as the House of Savoy, the Visconti in northern Italy, and the House of Habsburg in Austria and Slovenia.[115] In 1291, to protect themselves from incursions by the Habsburgs, four cantons in the middle of Switzerland drew up a charter that is considered to be a declaration of independence from neighbouring kingdoms. After a series of battles fought in the 13th, 14th, and 15th centuries, more cantons joined the confederacy and by the 16th century, Switzerland was well-established as a separate state.[116]

Russian troops under Suvorov crossing the Alps in 1799

During the Napoleonic Wars in the late 18th century and early 19th century, Napoleon annexed territory formerly controlled by the Habsburgs and Savoys. In 1798, he established the Helvetic Republic in Switzerland; two years later he led an army across the St. Bernard pass and conquered almost all of the Alpine regions.[117]

Built from 1300 to 1500 metres high on a rock of quartzite and surrounded by deep cliffs, the Forts de l’Esseillon prevented any invasion.

After the fall of Napoléon, many alpine countries developed heavy protections to prevent any new invasion. Thus, Savoy built a series of fortifications in the Maurienne valley to protect the major alpine passes, such as the col du Mont-Cenis that was even crossed by Charlemagne and his father to defeat the Lombards. The latter indeed became very popular after the construction of a paved road ordered by Napoléon Bonaparte.
The Barrière de l’Esseillon is a series of forts with heavy batteries, built on a cliff with a perfect view of the valley, a gorge on one side, and steep mountains on the other side.

In the 19th century, the monasteries built in the high Alps during the medieval period to shelter travellers and as places of pilgrimage became tourist destinations. The Benedictines had built monasteries in Lucerne, Switzerland, and Oberammergau; the Cistercians in the Tyrol and at Lake Constance, and the Augustinians had abbeys in the Savoy and one in the centre of Interlaken, Switzerland.[118] The Great St Bernard Hospice, built in the 9th or 10th centuries, at the summit of the Great Saint Bernard Pass was a shelter for travellers and place for pilgrims since its inception; by the 19th century it became a tourist attraction with notable visitors such as author Charles Dickens and mountaineer Edward Whymper.[119]

Exploration[edit]

Radiocarbon-dated charcoal placed around 50,000 years ago was found in the Drachloch (Dragon’s Hole) cave above the village of Vattis in the canton of St. Gallen, proving that the high peaks were visited by prehistoric people. Seven bear skulls from the cave may have been buried by the same prehistoric people.[120] The peaks, however, were mostly ignored except for a few notable examples, and long left to the exclusive attention of the people of the adjoining valleys.[121][122] The mountain peaks were seen as terrifying, the abode of dragons and demons, to the point that people blindfolded themselves to cross the Alpine passes.[123] The glaciers remained a mystery and many still believed the highest areas to be inhabited by dragons.[124]

Charles VII of France ordered his chamberlain to climb Mont Aiguille in 1356. The knight reached the summit of Rocciamelone where he left a bronze triptych of three crosses, a feat which he conducted with the use of ladders to traverse the ice.[125] In 1492, Antoine de Ville climbed Mont Aiguille, without reaching the summit, an experience he described as «horrifying and terrifying.»[122] Leonardo da Vinci was fascinated by variations of light in the higher altitudes, and climbed a mountain—scholars are uncertain which one; some believe it may have been Monte Rosa. From his description of a «blue like that of a gentian» sky it is thought that he reached a significantly high altitude.[126] In the 18th century four Chamonix men almost made the summit of Mont Blanc but were overcome by altitude sickness and snowblindness.[127]

Conrad Gessner was the first naturalist to ascend the mountains in the 16th century, to study them, writing that in the mountains he found the «theatre of the Lord».[128] By the 19th century more naturalists began to arrive to explore, study and conquer the high peaks.[129] Two men who first explored the regions of ice and snow were Horace-Bénédict de Saussure (1740–1799) in the Pennine Alps,[130] and the Benedictine monk of Disentis Placidus a Spescha (1752–1833).[129] Born in Geneva, Saussure was enamoured with the mountains from an early age; he left a law career to become a naturalist and spent many years trekking through the Bernese Oberland, the Savoy, the Piedmont and Valais, studying the glaciers and geology, as he became an early proponent of the theory of rock upheaval.[131] Saussure, in 1787, was a member of the third ascent of Mont Blanc—today the summits of all the peaks have been climbed.[34]

The Romantics and Alpinists[edit]

Albrecht von Haller’s poem Die Alpen (1732) described the mountains as an area of mythical purity.[132] Jean-Jacques Rousseau was another writer who presented the Alps as a place of allure and beauty, in his novel Julie, or the New Heloise (1761), Later the first wave of Romantics such as Goethe and Turner came to admire the scenery;[133] Wordsworth visited the area in 1790, writing of his experiences in The Prelude (1799). Schiller later wrote the play William Tell (1804), which tells the story of the legendary Swiss marksman William Tell as part of the greater Swiss struggle for independence from the Habsburg Empire in the early 14th century. At the end of the Napoleonic Wars, the Alpine countries began to see an influx of poets, artists, and musicians,[134] as visitors came to experience the sublime effects of monumental nature.[135]

In 1816, Byron, Percy Bysshe Shelley and his wife Mary Shelley visited Geneva and all three were inspired by the scenery in their writings.[134] During these visits Shelley wrote the poem «Mont Blanc», Byron wrote «The Prisoner of Chillon» and the dramatic poem Manfred, and Mary Shelley, who found the scenery overwhelming, conceived the idea for the novel Frankenstein in her villa on the shores of Lake Geneva amid a thunderstorm. When Coleridge travelled to Chamonix, he declaimed, in defiance of Shelley, who had signed himself «Atheos» in the guestbook of the Hotel de Londres near Montenvers,[136] «Who would be, who could be an atheist in this valley of wonders».[137]

By the mid-19th century scientists began to arrive en masse to study the geology and ecology of the region.[138]

From the beginning of the 19th century, the tourism and mountaineering development of the Alps began. In the early years of the «golden age of alpinism» initially scientific activities were mixed with sport, for example by the physicist John Tyndall, with the first ascent of the Matterhorn by Edward Whymper being the highlight. In the later years, the «silver age of alpinism», the focus was on mountain sports and climbing. The first president of the Alpine Club, John Ball, is considered the discoverer of the Dolomites, which for decades were the focus of climbers like Paul Grohmann, Michael Innerkofler and Angelo Dibona.[139][140][141]

The Nazis[edit]

Austrian-born Adolf Hitler had a lifelong romantic fascination with the Alps and by the 1930s established a home at Berghof, in the Obersalzberg region outside of Berchtesgaden. His first visit to the area was in 1923 and he maintained a strong tie there until the end of his life. At the end of World War II, the US Army occupied Obersalzberg, to prevent Hitler from retreating with the Wehrmacht into the mountains.[142]

By 1940 many of the Alpine countries were under the control of the Axis powers. Austria underwent a political coup that made it part of the Third Reich; France had been invaded and Italy was a fascist regime. Switzerland and Liechtenstein were the only countries to avoid an Axis takeover.[143] The Swiss Confederation mobilized its troops—the country follows the doctrine of «armed neutrality» with all males required to have military training—a number that General Eisenhower estimated to be about 850,000. The Swiss commanders wired the infrastructure leading into the country with explosives, and threatened to destroy bridges, railway tunnels, and roads across passes in the event of a Nazi invasion; and if there was an invasion the Swiss army would then have retreated to the heart of the mountain peaks, where conditions were harsher, and a military invasion would involve difficult and protracted battles.[144]

German Ski troops were trained for the war, and battles were waged in mountainous areas such as the battle at Riva Ridge in Italy, where the American 10th Mountain Division encountered heavy resistance in February 1945.[145] At the end of the war, a substantial amount of Nazi plunder was found stored in Austria, where Hitler had hoped to retreat as the war drew to a close. The salt mines surrounding the Altaussee area, where American troops found 75 kg (165 lb) of gold coins stored in a single mine, were used to store looted art, jewels, and currency; vast quantities of looted art were found and returned to the owners.[146]

Largest cities[edit]

The largest city within the Alps is the city of Grenoble in France. Other larger and important cities within the Alps with over 100,000 inhabitants are in Tyrol with Bolzano (Italy), Trento (Italy) and Innsbruck (Austria). Larger cities outside the Alps are Milan, Verona, Turin (Italy), Munich (Germany), Graz, Vienna, Salzburg (Austria), Ljubljana, Maribor, Kranj (Slovenia), Zurich, Geneva (Switzerland), Nice and Lyon (France).

Cities with over 100,000 inhabitants in the Alps are:

Rank Municipality Inhabitants Country Region
1 Blason ville fr Grenoble (Isere).svg Grenoble 162,780 France Blason Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes.svg Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes
2 AUT Innsbruck COA.svg Innsbruck 132,236 Austria AUT Tirol COA.svg Tyrol
3 Trient.JPG Trento 117,417 Italy Coat of arms of Trentino-South Tyrol.svg Trentino-South Tyrol
4 ITA Bolzano COA.svg Bolzano/Bozen 106,951 Italy Coat of arms of Trentino-South Tyrol.svg Trentino-South Tyrol

Alpine people and culture[edit]

The population of the region is 14 million spread across eight countries.[5] On the rim of the mountains, on the plateaus, and on the plains the economy consists of manufacturing and service jobs whereas in the higher altitudes and the mountains farming is still essential to the economy.[147] Farming and forestry continue to be mainstays of Alpine culture, industries that provide for export to the cities and maintain the mountain ecology.[148]

The Alpine regions are multicultural and linguistically diverse. Dialects are common and vary from valley to valley and region to region. In the Slavic Alps alone 19 dialects have been identified. Some of the Romance dialects spoken in the French, Swiss and Italian alps of Aosta Valley derive from Arpitan, while the southern part of the western range is related to Occitan; the German dialects derive from Germanic tribal languages.[149] Romansh, spoken by two percent of the population in southeast Switzerland, is an ancient Rhaeto-Romanic language derived from Latin, remnants of ancient Celtic languages and perhaps Etruscan.[149]

Hallstatt is known for its production of salt, dating back to prehistoric times.

Much of the Alpine culture is unchanged since the medieval period when skills that guaranteed survival in the mountain valleys and the highest villages became mainstays, leading to strong traditions of carpentry, woodcarving, baking, pastry-making, and cheesemaking.[150]

Farming has been a traditional occupation for centuries, although it became less dominant in the 20th century with the advent of tourism. Grazing and pasture land are limited because of the steep and rocky topography of the Alps. In mid-June, cows are moved to the highest pastures close to the snowline, where they are watched by herdsmen who stay in the high altitudes often living in stone huts or wooden barns during the summers.[150] Villagers celebrate the day the cows are herded up to the pastures and again when they return in mid-September. The Almabtrieb, Alpabzug, Alpabfahrt, Désalpes («coming down from the alps») is celebrated by decorating the cows with garlands and enormous cowbells while the farmers dress in traditional costumes.[150]

In the summers the cows are brought up to the high mountain meadows for grazing. Small summer villages such as the one shown in this photograph taken in Savoy are used.

Cheesemaking is an ancient tradition in most Alpine countries. A wheel of cheese from the Emmental in Switzerland can weigh up to 45 kg (100 lb), and the Beaufort in Savoy can weigh up to 70 kg (150 lb). Owners of the cows traditionally receive from the cheesemakers a portion about the proportion of the cows’ milk from the summer months in the high alps. Haymaking is an important farming activity in mountain villages that have become somewhat mechanized in recent years, although the slopes are so steep that scythes are usually necessary to cut the grass. Hay is normally brought in twice a year, often also on festival days.[150]

In the high villages, people live in homes built according to medieval designs that withstand cold winters. The kitchen is separated from the living area (called the stube, the area of the home heated by a stove), and second-floor bedrooms benefit from rising heat. The typical Swiss chalet originated in the Bernese Oberland. Chalets often face south or downhill and are built of solid wood, with a steeply gabled roof to allow accumulated snow to slide off easily. Stairs leading to upper levels are sometimes built on the outside, and balconies are sometimes enclosed.[150][151]

Food is passed from the kitchen to the stube, where the dining room table is placed. Some meals are communal, such as fondue, where a pot is set in the middle of the table for each person to dip into. Other meals are still served traditionally on carved wooden plates. Furniture has been traditionally elaborately carved and in many Alpine countries, carpentry skills are passed from generation to generation.

Alpine chalet being built in Haute-Maurienne (Savoy), the use of thick pieces of orthogneiss (4–7 cm) is by the strict architectural regulations in the region bordering the national parks of Vanoise-Grand Paradis.

Roofs are traditionally constructed from Alpine rocks such as pieces of schist, gneiss, or slate.[152] Such chalets are typically found in the higher parts of the valleys, as in the Maurienne valley in Savoy, where the amount of snow during the cold months is important. The inclination of the roof cannot exceed 40%, allowing the snow to stay on top, thereby functioning as insulation from the cold.[153] In the lower areas where the forests are widespread, wooden tiles are traditionally used. Commonly made of Norway spruce, they are called «tavaillon».

In the German-speaking parts of the Alps (Austria, Bavaria, South Tyrol, Liechtenstein and Switzerland), there is a strong tradition of Alpine folk culture. Old traditions are carefully maintained among inhabitants of Alpine areas, even though this is seldom obvious to the visitor: many people are members of cultural associations where the Alpine folk culture is cultivated. At cultural events, traditional folk costume (in German Tracht) is expected: typically lederhosen for men and dirndls for women. Visitors can get a glimpse of the rich customs of the Alps at public Volksfeste. Even when large events feature only a little folk culture, all participants take part with gusto. Good opportunities to see local people celebrating the traditional culture occur at the many fairs, wine festivals, and firefighting festivals which fill weekends in the countryside from spring to autumn. Alpine festivals vary from country to country. Frequently they include music (e.g. the playing of Alpenhorns), dance (e.g. Schuhplattler), sports (e.g. wrestling marches and archery), as well as traditions with pagan roots such as the lighting of fires on Walpurgis Night and Saint John’s Eve. Many areas celebrate Fastnacht in the weeks before Lent. Folk costume also continues to be worn for most weddings and festivals.[154][155]

Tourism[edit]

The Alps are one of the more popular tourist destinations in the world with many resorts such as Oberstdorf, in Bavaria, Saalbach in Austria, Davos in Switzerland, Chamonix in France, and Cortina d’Ampezzo in Italy recording more than a million annual visitors. With over 120 million visitors a year, tourism is integral to the Alpine economy with much of it coming from winter sports, although summer visitors are also an important component.[156]

The tourism industry began in the early 19th century when foreigners visited the Alps, travelled to the bases of the mountains to enjoy the scenery, and stayed at the spa-resorts. Large hotels were built during the Belle Époque; cog-railways, built early in the 20th century, brought tourists to ever-higher elevations, with the Jungfraubahn terminating at the Jungfraujoch, well above the eternal snow-line, after going through a tunnel in Eiger. During this period winter sports were slowly introduced: in 1882 the first figure skating championship was held in St. Moritz, and downhill skiing became a popular sport with English visitors early in the 20th century,[156] as the first ski-lift was installed in 1908 above Grindelwald.[157]

In the first half of the 20th century the Olympic Winter Games were held three times in Alpine venues: the 1924 Winter Olympics in Chamonix, France; the 1928 Winter Olympics in St. Moritz, Switzerland; and the 1936 Winter Olympics in Garmisch-Partenkirchen, Germany. During World War II the winter games were cancelled but after that time the Winter Games have been held in St. Moritz (1948), Cortina d’Ampezzo (1956), Innsbruck, Austria (1964 and 1976), Grenoble, France, (1968), Albertville, France, (1992), and Torino (2006).[158] In 1930, the Lauberhorn Rennen (Lauberhorn Race), was run for the first time on the Lauberhorn above Wengen;[159] the equally demanding Hahnenkamm was first run in the same year in Kitzbühl, Austria.[160] Both races continue to be held each January on successive weekends. The Lauberhorn is the more strenuous downhill race at 4.5 km (2.8 mi) and poses danger to racers who reach 130 km/h (81 mph) within seconds of leaving the start gate.[161]

During the post-World War I period, ski lifts were built in Swiss and Austrian towns to accommodate winter visitors, but summer tourism continued to be important; by the mid-20th century the popularity of downhill skiing increased greatly as it became more accessible and in the 1970s several new villages were built in France devoted almost exclusively to skiing, such as Les Menuires. Until this point, Austria and Switzerland had been the traditional and more popular destinations for winter sports, but by the end of the 20th century and into the early 21st century, France, Italy, and the Tyrol began to see increases in winter visitors.[156] From 1980 to the present, ski-lifts have been modernized and snow-making machines installed at many resorts, leading to mounting concerns regarding the loss of traditional Alpine culture and uncertainties regarding sustainable development.[162] For instance the number of ski resorts and piste kilometres has declined since 2015, a likely result of climatic change.[163]

Avalanche/snow-slide[edit]

  • 17th-century French-Italian border avalanche: in the 17th century about 2500 people were killed by an avalanche in a village on the French-Italian border.
  • 19th century Zermatt avalanche: in the 19th century, 120 homes in a village near Zermatt were destroyed by an avalanche.[164]
  • December 13, 1916 Marmolada-mountain-avalanche
  • 1950–1951 winter-of-terror avalanches
  • February 10, 1970 Val d’Isère avalanche
  • February 9, 1999 Montroc avalanche
  • February 21, 1999 Evolène avalanche
  • February 23, 1999, Galtür avalanche the deadliest avalanche in the Alps in 40 years.
  • July 2014 Mont-Blanc avalanche
  • January 13, 2016 Les-Deux-Alpes avalanche
  • January 18, 2016 Valfréjus avalanche
  • July 3, 2022 Marmolada serac collapse

Transportation[edit]

The region is serviced by 4,200 km (2,600 mi) of roads used by six million vehicles per year.[5] Train travel is well established in the Alps, with, for instance 120 km (75 mi) of track for every 1,000 km2 (390 sq mi) in a country such as Switzerland.[165] Most of Europe’s highest railways are located there. In 2007, the new 34.57 km-long (21.48 mi) Lötschberg Base Tunnel was opened, which circumvents the 100 years older Lötschberg Tunnel. With the opening of the 57.1 km-long (35.5 mi) Gotthard Base Tunnel on June 1, 2016, it bypasses the Gotthard Tunnel built in the 19th century and realizes the first flat route through the Alps.[166]

Some high mountain villages are car-free either because of inaccessibility or by choice. Wengen, and Zermatt (in Switzerland) are accessible only by cable car or cog-rail trains. Avoriaz (in France), is car-free, with other Alpine villages considering becoming car-free zones or limiting the number of cars for reasons of sustainability of the fragile Alpine terrain.[167]

The lower regions and larger towns of the Alps are well-served by motorways and main roads, but higher mountain passes and byroads, which are amongst the highest in Europe, can be treacherous even in summer due to steep slopes. Many passes are closed in winter. Several airports around the Alps (and some within), as well as long-distance rail links from all neighbouring countries, afford large numbers of travellers easy access.[5]

See also[edit]

Notes[edit]

  1. ^ French: Alpes [alp]; German: Alpen [ˈalpm̩] (listen); Italian: Alpi [ˈalpi]; Romansh: Alps [alps]; Slovene: Alpe [ˈáːlpɛ].
  2. ^ The Caucasus Mountains are higher, and the Urals longer, but both lie partly in Asia.
  3. ^ Depending on the definitions used, a small mountain range in western Hungary may also qualify as part of the Alps, although these are more typically classified as foothills, and Hungary is not considered to be an Alpine country.[3]

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Works cited[edit]

  • Alpine Convention. (2010). The Alps: People and pressures in the mountains, the facts at a glance
  • Allaby, Michael et al. The Encyclopedia of Earth. (2008). Berkeley: University of California Press. ISBN 978-0-520-25471-8
  • Beattie, Andrew. (2006). The Alps: A Cultural History. New York: Oxford University Press. ISBN 978-0-19-530955-3
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  • Cebon, Peter, et al. (1998). Views from the Alps: Regional Perspectives on Climate Change. Cambridge MA: MIT Press. ISBN 978-0-262-03252-0
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  •  This article incorporates text from a publication now in the public domain: Coolidge, William Augustus Brevoort; Lake, Philip; Knox, Howard Vincent (1911). «Alps». Encyclopædia Britannica. Vol. 1 (11th ed.). pp. 737–754.
  • De Graciansky, Pierre-Charles et al. (2011). The Western Alps, From Rift to Passive Margin to Orogenic Belt. Amsterdam: Elsevier. ISBN 978-0-444-53724-9
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  • Hudson, Simon. (2000). Snow Business: A Study of the International Ski Industry. New York: Cengage ISBN 978-0-304-70471-2
  • Körner, Christian. (2003). Alpine Plant Life. New York: Springer Verlag. ISBN 978-3-540-00347-2
  • Lancel, Serge. (1999). Hannibal. Oxford: Blackwell. ISBN 978-0-631-21848-7
  • Mitchell, Arthur H. (2007). Hitler’s Mountain. Jefferson, NC: McFarland. ISBN 978-0-7864-2458-0
  • Prevas, John. (2001). Hannibal Crosses The Alps: The Invasion Of Italy And The Punic Wars. Cambridge, MA: Da Capo Press. ISBN 978-0-306-81070-1
  • Reynolds, Kev. (2012) The Swiss Alps. Cicerone Press. ISBN 978-1-85284-465-3
  • Roth, Philipe. (2007). Minerals first Discovered in Switzerland. Lausanne, CH: Museum of Geology. ISBN 978-3-9807561-8-1
  • Schmid, Stefan M. (2004). «Regional tectonics: from the Rhine graben to the Po plain, a summary of the tectonic evolution of the Alps and their forelands». Basel: Geologisch-Paläontologisches Institut
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  • Shoumatoff, Nicholas and Nina. (2001). The Alps: Europe’s Mountain Heart. Ann Arbor, MI: University of Michigan Press. ISBN 978-0-472-11111-4
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External links[edit]

  • 17, 2005 Satellite photo of the Alps, taken on August 31, 2005, by MODIS aboard Terra
  • Official website of the Alpine Space Programme This EU-co-funded programme co-finances transnational projects in the Alpine region

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